Very easy to remove master cylinder from under the car. Do you have LHD
or RHD?
If RHD, simply remove pipe from rear of M/C. Remove two securing bolts,
and extract M/C from car.
If LHD, loosen pipe from M/C to tee fitting on left side rail. DO NOT
REMOVE. Loosen pipe from rear of M/C, but do not pull out at this time.
Remove two securing bolts holding M/C to bracket. Pull back, and down.
Remove pipe from back of M/C, and remove M/C.
The factory should have put a 360 + 90 degree loop, from the M/C to the
tee fitting on the LHD cars. That would act as a spring, allowing for
removal of the pipe from the rear of the M/C, without the possibility of
kinking or bending the pipe.
When reinstalling the pipe, be sure that you start the threads by hand.
You can easily cross-thread a steel nut fitting with a wrench to try and
start it.
I have heard that the MGA has the same size cylinder bore as a TD/TF,
but has a softer rubber cup in the rebuild kit.
John Seim
Irvine, CA
Douglas Ormrod wrote:
>Thanks for all the useful suggestions - I guess the switch is the
>simplest place to start. Just in case I have to take the master cylinder
>out - is it possible to remove it from underneath - the manual says to
>take the floorboard out which is a real pain - especially as I just
>spent two days putting them all back in again.
>
>One thing that occurs to me is that I think the brake lights were
>working fine when I tested them six months ago - perhaps it is a
>sticking pedal or something that I have caused during the floorboard in
>and out.
>
>Cheers
>
>Douglas
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