Oh I left off making sure the gearbox is in neutral and foot off the clutch.
On 2/9/06, Scott Allen <sallen6363@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> I'm not running sil in my brake system I'm using Castrol LMA. Switches
> are cheap, but one would hope that they wouldn't fail so soon, especially
> the ones from Lucas....
>
> Since I'm sure other people will ask about cold startiing, after
> conflating everyone's suggestions here's what I came up with which seems to
> work for me:
>
> Prep work:
>
> I. Make sure there's almost no slack in the choke cable when the choke
> is fully in, (there needs to be some slack, but not very much).
>
> II. Make sure that both carb jets are pulled out as far as possible when
> fully choked.
>
> III. Make sure that the fast idle screw is properly adjusted for cold
> weather so that the butterflies aren't open too far.
>
> Here goes...
>
> 1. Fully choke the engine.
>
> 2. Turn on the ignition to fill the float bowls.
>
> 3. Turn off the ignition.
>
> 4. Crank the starter a few times with the ignition off.
>
> 5. Hit the gas pedal once.
>
> 6. Turn on the ignition.
>
> 7. Pull the starter.
>
> While some may want to tweak the details this seems to work. The last two
> mornings here it's been in the 20's and the TD's kicked over with 20secs of
> so of hitting the starter. Yesterday on the first pull and today on the
> second.
>
> Thanks again everyone!
>
> Scott
>
>
>
>
> On 2/9/06, Bob Grunau <grunau.garage@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >
> > Scott,
> > So what helped the starting problem?
> > Brake light switches are known to fail, maybe even due to silicone
> > fluid?
> > Try your test light on the brake light side of the switch with a helper
> > pressing the pedal. No juice ? Switch has failed.
> > Bob Grunau
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