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FW: gas tank cap seal

To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: FW: gas tank cap seal
From: "drmoyce" <drmoyce@ent-oakland.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 13:46:38 -0700
-----Original Message-----
From: drmoyce [mailto:drmoyce@ent-oakland.com] 
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 12:46 PM
To: 'Bob Howard'
Subject: RE: gas tank cap seal

I drilled the holes about a half inch above the cut end.  I routinely
fill until the nozzle shuts off and don't top off.  I don't know where
the air goes, but the gas stays in the tank.

A

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Howard [mailto:mgbob@juno.com] 
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 12:20 PM
To: drmoyce@ent-oakland.com
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: gas tank cap seal

Hi Andy,
  Great idea.  I understand the principle of it.  You wrote the drilled
holes are at the cut end, which I assume is the bottom, immersed end. 
How full can you fill the tank?   How does displaced air escape once the
fuel level reaches top of the drilled holes?  Is there a second set of
drilled holes near the filler top?
Bob


On Thu, 23 Jun 2005 12:33:04 -0700 "drmoyce" <drmoyce@ent-oakland.com>
writes:
> Easiest upgrade for my TD was to fix the sloshing of gas when the 
> tank
> is full.  Get a flared piece of bathroom drainpipe from the hardware
> store (the straight piece with a flared end, 1  1/4" diameter.) Cut 
> to
> about 3 1/2 to 4" , preserving the flared end, of course.  Drill 2 
> 1/4"
> holes across from each other near the cut end.  Put the pipe into 
> the
> gas filler, pad the flared end with a scrap of wood, and pound it 
> down
> until flush.
> 15 minutes work, $3.00 in parts and no more overflow.
> 
> This isn't my original, but works fine.  The 1/4 inch holes may 
> serve
> some fluid dynamic purpose, but if I ever needed to remove the pipe 
> they
> could be used to get purchase on the pipe to lift it out.
> 
> Andy Moyce 
> 52 TD

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