Terry,
Thanks for sharing the bushing #s. There is quite a savings to be had.
Unless you are sure that the chassis bushings need to be replaced,
badly, avoid doing that job until the body is off the car. When I
changed my pedal bushings, I changed the chassis bushings also
("might-as-well while-I'm-at-it") which was a bad decision. Mine
weren't worn; the shaft didn't wobble, and I got into a difficult project
that I regretted having undertaken. While it's easy to pull out the
bushings, getting them back in is not, as they are perpendicular to the
centerline of the car but the chassis rail is not parallel to the
centerline at that point, so a bolt&nut puller arrangement pulls the new
bushing at an angle instead of straight into the hole. Besides, there is
limited working room with body on the chassis. It wasn't pleasant, and
the shaft had no less free movement than before (when it had none
anyway).
The pedal bushings, on the other hand, are easy to do and the results
are plain. I recall that the one bolt (clutch, I think it was) needed to
be removed completely as the pivot or shaft or something was grooved for
the bolt to pass it. The shaft slid right out once pedals had been
attended to and the circlip near the grease nipple had been removed.
Pop bought this car new and quickly learned about that grease nipple.
That may explain why the shaft bushings were OK. The pedal bushings were
probably contaminated and abraded by the accumulated dirt in the pedal
box.
Bob
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 13:23:01 EST TATERRY@aol.com writes:
> For the record, the following are the Eagle Picher powdered metal
> bearing
> part numbers:
>
> The two bushes in the chassis are:
> EP121420
>
> The bush in the pivot/lever on the gearbox is:
> EP081014
>
> The bush in the brake pedal is:
> EP121618
>
> All were in stock at my local bearing house and cost a total of
> $6.25
>
> Cheers
> Terry.
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