Don,
Who told you those tales? A painter who would like to have you job perhaps?
I agree it is not wise to mix paint systems, but I've been painting small
parts with poof cans for years - especially chassis and engine parts and
things that aren't painted in body color.
If you are painting parts in final body color like fenders, etc. then you
need to be more careful. It's not that paints WILL lift, it they the MAY
lift. There may also be other adverse effects.
When you start to paint with final color, test some first. Spray over the
areas with primer and see what happens. Look for the immediate effects like
the topcoat curdling (usually happens if you shoot a lacquer over an enamel
base). Then expose the dried panel to the elements, heat, sunlight, etc. If
no adverse effects are noticed for a few weeks, you're home free.
It's one thing to try to paint a whole car with poof cans (although I know a
couple of people that have achieved fantastic results doing it). It's
another to overshoot a few smaller parts.
Given the choice, it's best to shoot a wash coat of primer if humidity is a
problem. Then if you need to paint later with an incompatible paint, you can
use a thinner to wipe off the thin wash coat.
I hope this gives you some useful advice.
Cheers,
Lew Palmer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of DB35PA@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2004 10:11 AM
To: mg-mmm@autox.team.net
Subject: Selection of high build primer
Painting issues
I have been recently warned NOT to use spray can high build primers. The
advice also adds I MUST use only two part epoxy filling primers, or
subsequent
paints will fail.
Unfortunately, I have already used SEM self etching and Dupli-Color High
build sprays on smaller parts such as front apron, running boards, petrol
tank,
and a whole host of little bits.
I have been priming parts all along to prevent surface rust from forming as
I must work in unheated garage and cannot control the relative humidity. I
had
already experienced some raw, untreated steel parts showing surface rust in
as little as 2 weeks.
While I can certainly switch on larger parts like wings, body, bonnet
(after
I construct a spray booth in the garage), must I remove all previous
primers
and re-prime?
What has been the groups' experiences?
Thanks,
Don B.
PA 1823
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/mg-mmm
/// Send list postings to mg-mmm@autox.team.net
|