Keith;
If your solid rivets are too long, they can be cut to a shorter length.
There is a rivet cutter that does a nice job of shearing the shank
without buggering it up.
You can usually find solid rivets on eBay at bargain prices. I don't
have my handbook here right now but I think you should have 1.5 to 2
times its diameter sticking out. Use type AD; these are aluminum alloy
2117 so they are not real hard but still have decent strength.
Just for reference, countersunk (flat head) types are AN426 or MS20426
and universal head types are AN470 or MS20470.
Space the rivets about 8 to 10 times the rivet diameter and don't place
rivets closer than about 3 diameters to the edge of the panel.
There are good blind rivets on the market that are stronger than solid
rivets. These aren't hardware-store variety "Pop Rivets", though. Huck
and Cherry make them but they are expensive. CherryMax is an example of
an aerospace- quality blind rivet that is designed for high shear
strength and vibration resistance. An Avex rivet is a lower cost
compromise that isn't bad at all.
Practice on scrap panels first!
I hope this helps.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-land-speed@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-land-speed@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Keith Turk
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 8:54 AM
To: LSR List
Subject: Rivets
Just curious if anyone has a favorite source of rivets.... not pop
rivets...
but the one's you hammer in place..
My buddy's building an airplane and I needed to reinforce an area of the
cowl
on the race car... so I borrowed some from him and all his tools that
make
this a Very cool deal... but his supply of rivets didn't include the
length I
needed...
Also just out of curiousity... anyone have the exact length they should
stick
out prior to hammering?
K
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