I've been thinking about doing just that. I can
just downshift to first when I get to the end.
Besides, the right front brake still works pretty
good. If I hammer the broken ends of the other
three brakelines shut with a ball peen hammer,
(there goes Keith's tool again), the one
remaining brake should work fine - - NO?
Dick J
--- Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net> wrote:
> Hell, Dick...just weld it back up. You don't
> need no stinkin' brakes!
>
> joe ( the blind tech guy)
>
> Dick J wrote:
>
> > Yup, there are two adjusters. I'm going to
> check
> > around with the local Mopar dealers, some of
> em
> > around here have been in business since they
> sold
> > wagons. I ought to be able to find one of
> those
> > pullers. Otherwise, it's going to be: heat
> the
> > drum until its fading from red, and beat the
> > gollywhumper out of it with a Keith-sized
> hammer.
> > (I've just always tried to avoid using that
> > technique - - mainly because of the "ski" on
> the
> > end of my name!)
> >
> > I just pulled a drum off of an old Chev rear
> end
> > and had to resort to burning two holes in it
> so I
> > could pry the shoes loose. Needless to say,
> that
> > rendered the left-over pieces of the drum a
> > little useless - 'course, 67 Chev drums are
> more
> > readily available than 54 Dodge drums.
> >
> > Keith, will Joe pass my car through safety
> tech
> > if I grind the cracks in the brake drum real
> > smooth after gluing them back together with
> Super
> > Glue? Maybe a coat of Rustoleum flat black?
> > What brand super glue do you use for that?
> >
> > --- DOUG ODOM <popms@thegrid.net> wrote:
> > > Dick; I remember at the dealership we had a
> > > puller that bolted to the
> > > axle and you had to hit it hard with a BIG
> > > hammer to get the drums off.
> > > I think that those are duel plane brakes.
> You
> > > have two adjusters on the
> > > backing plate you have to back off. One for
> > > each shoe. If you have an
> > > old mopar dealership in your town they
> might
> > > still have that puller in
> > > the back room. It's a big heavy thing.
> > > Doug Odom in big
> ditch
> > > Dick J wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I'm taking in all this advice and will
> try a
> > > > combination. There are no holes to pry
> from.
> > > > The axles are tapered, presumeably with a
> > > keyway.
> > > > The axle flanges appear to be welded to
> the
> > > > drums. I put a big puller on the lugs
> and
> > > tried
> > > > around 400 ftlbs of torque (using one of
> > > those 4
> > > > foot wrenches made for Porsche
> flywheels),
> > > then
> > > > hammered too. I was afraid I'd break the
> > > puller.
> > > >
> > > > Dick J
> > > >
> > > > --- FastmetalBDF@aol.com wrote:
> > > > > Dick, Does the drum have a
> large
> > > hole
> > > > > ( like 3 or 4 inch ) on its'
> > > > > face
> > > > > where the end of the axle sticks
> through to
> > > > > take any shear loading off of the
> > > > > lugs ...... as older chevs do ? They
> can
> > > get
> > > > > stuck like they were welded on
> > > > > at this juncture of the axle & drum .
> That
> > > is
> > > > > why Chevrolet provided the two
> > > > > " C " shaped holes, 180 * opposite each
> > > other,
> > > > > in the face of the drum .....
> > > > > you hammer a pair of those hook shaped
> "
> > > > > wedging " tools in between the
> > > > > drum face and axle flange face and pry
> > > outward
> > > > > on both handles ......
> > > > > usually does the job ..... many times
> the
> > > drum
> > > > > pops off right as you hammer
> > > > > them in ..... sometimes you do need
> some
> > > heat
> > > > > to help coax them off ......
> > > > > I do not know if your old Mopar
> has
> > > > > those holes in the drums, or the
> > > > > shouldered axle ends ..... never worked
> on
> > > 'em
> > > > > ..... my toys and daily drivers
> > > > > were always flathead Fords n'
> smallblock
> > > Chevs
> > > > > . Be sure to check to
> > > > > see if the drums are badly worn, and
> the
> > > ridge
> > > > > near the backside of the
> > > > > drum is hanging up on the edge of the
> brake
> > > > > shoes ...... this can be a real
> > > > > headache if you don' t care to
> TURKhammer
> > > them
> > > > > ! ( he knows ALL
> > > > > those Old World Craftsman precision
> tricks,
> > > > > doesn' t he !!! )
> > > > > Maybe you could make a custom
> puller
> > > > > arrangement up with some
> > > > > steel plate and big ( like 1" )
> threaded
> > > rod to
> > > > > apply steady pressure ( AND
> > > > > maybe some hearty raps on the drum )
> ......
> > > > > that has saved the day for
> > > > > me a few times . Working with vintage
> tin
> > > and
> > > > > tired iron presents its' own
> > > > > PROBLEMS ..... but it' s sure
> gratifying
> > > when
> > > > > you solve them !
> > > > > Don' t forget the school of
> thought
> > > that
> > > > > if enough CHOICE words
> > > > > are directed at the offending parts
> .....
> > > ALL
> > > > > will work out !!!
> > > > > I graduated from that school long
> ago
> > > > > ..... ( well, MOST of the time ! )
> > > > > Have FUN ! Watch out for skinned
> knuckles
> > > and
> > > > > ruined parts .......
> > > > > YOURS
> and
> > > the
> > > > > car' s !
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > =====
> > > > * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> > > > * Dick J *
> > > > * (In East Texas) *
> > > > * # 729 *
> > > > * C/GRS E/STR *
> > > > * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> > > >
> > > >
> >
>
__________________________________________________
> >
> > =====
> > * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> > * Dick J *
> > * (In East Texas) *
> > * # 729 *
> > * C/GRS E/STR *
> > * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
=== message truncated ===
=====
* * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Dick J *
* (In East Texas) *
* # 729 *
* C/GRS E/STR *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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