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I think centering the shoes with the brakes applied works well, but only
with new/freshly turned drums and shoes. If the shoes aren't centered
they will wear uneven, and lock up uneven.
The best idea I've come up with is to use a large caliper--not
easy/cheap to find--and make sure the shoes are square to each other. If
they are, they should be orthogonal to the backplate.
Bob
On 3/31/2021 10:58 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Obviously the quality of the felt being used is not satisfactory.Â
> I've got a pair of BN1 rear brakes here that still have the felts in
> place and are still greasy.
> I don't believe eliminating metat to metal is the intent ... just to
> provide sufficient lubrication to eliminate squeaks.
>
> M
>
> On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 11:47 a.m. Roger Grace via Healeys,
>
> Bob,
> Yes agree about the felt bushes. I assume that their only function
> is to prevent metal to metal contact ?
> So do the fibre tubes protrude slightly beyond the end of the pegs ?
> Will try to locate something suitable.
>
> Wonder how you adjust these pegs ?
> There seems to be 3 different techniques:
>
> The Moss method with chalk marks on the shoes.
>
> The Salter method by adjusting in/out to each shoe edge then
> setting to the mid point.
>
> The usual method - centering the shoes (by stomping on the
> brakes) then adjusting the peg to just make contact while shoes
> are clamped.
>
> I tend to favour the last method .... ?
>
> Tkx
> rg
>
>
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I think centering the shoes with the brakes applied works well, but
only with new/freshly turned drums and shoes. If the shoes aren't
centered they will wear uneven, and lock up uneven.<br>
<br>
The best idea I've come up with is to use a large caliper--not
easy/cheap to find--and make sure the shoes are square to each
other. If they are, they should be orthogonal to the backplate.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/31/2021 10:58 AM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAB3i7LK9MQdNC1fk6T4p=CqSeZQ=a-qFfDbxg86nXC-kYZj7Aw@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="auto">Obviously the quality of the felt being used is
not satisfactory. I've got a pair of BN1 rear brakes here that
still have the felts in place and are still greasy.Â
<div dir="auto">I don't believe eliminating metat to metal is
the intent ... just to provide sufficient lubrication to
eliminate squeaks.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">M</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 11:47
a.m. Roger Grace via Healeys, <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Bob,</div>
<div>Yes agree about the felt bushes. I assume that their
only function is to prevent metal to metal contact ?</div>
<div>So do the fibre tubes protrude slightly beyond the end
of the pegs ?</div>
<div>Will try to locate something suitable.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Wonder how you adjust these pegs ?</div>
<div>There seems to be 3 different techniques:</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Moss method with chalk marks on the shoes. <br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Salter method by adjusting in/out to each shoe edge
then setting to the mid point.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The usual method - centering the shoes (by stomping
on the brakes) then adjusting the peg to just make contact
while shoes are clamped.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I tend to favour the last method .... ?<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Tkx</div>
<div>rg<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
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