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By way of explanation, electricity flows better through a cold circuit
than it does a hot one ('superconductivity' requires near-zero degrees
Kelvin to work; 'room temperature superconductivity' is still a pipe
dream). What may be happening is the starter's field coils don't conduct
as well when hot, so the starter can't crank as well when it's
heat-soaked. If the starter has never been (properly) rebuilt, the cloth
wrap on the field coils is likely shot and allowing some leakage through
the windings. Also, a partial short anywhere in the starting circuit
could cause or contribute to the problem; when the engine is cold, try
cranking--without a start if possible (I don't recall if the key needs
to be in 'run' to crank, if so you can disconnect the low-voltage lead
to the coil)--and feel the cables and connection points, if any feel
inordinately warm check them out. A failing starter solenoid could also
contribute (though that's usually more random--at first). I had starter
issues--not heat-related--with my BN2, after a starter rebuild. I
finally figured out that, after the rebuild I'd put Grade 8 flat washers
and split washers under the nuts on the starter bolts; it turns out I'd
impinged the path to ground with the flat washers, when I took them off
the starter worked as it should.
Mike Martinez at Star Auto Electric has done starter and generator
rebuilds for me, and knows Healeys: http://starautoelectric.com/ (NFI)
Bob
On 7/5/2020 7:24 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Gary,
> In my experience it is difficult to accurately determine the cause of
> starting problems without some diagnosis.
> Checking the voltage between the starter power terminal and ground
> during activation of the starter is the first thing to check.
> Typically there should be at least 10 volts during this test.
> That said however, the symptoms that you describe are pretty typical
> of a starter that is on the way out.
> If the starter is starting to fail be careful ... applying power to a
> starter which is not turning can melt the solder of the commutator
> which substantially increases the cost of rebuilding the unit.
>
> M
>
>
> On Sun., Jul. 5, 2020, 9:06 a.m. warthodson--- via Healeys,
>
> A friend's 100 appears to have an issue with his starter. On a
> recent day trip, the car started fine in the morning at home &
> would re-start again if the car had time to cool down after
> stopping. But if the car was only stopped for a short time, like
> at a gas station, before re-starting the starter would barely turn
> the engine over, if at all. He has a new battery & the ignition lite
> was lit when the engine was not running & was not lit when it was
> running. Does this indicate something is wrong with the starter &
> what is it?
> Gary Hodson
>
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By way of explanation, electricity flows better through a cold
circuit than it does a hot one ('superconductivity' requires
near-zero degrees Kelvin to work; 'room temperature
superconductivity' is still a pipe dream). What may be happening is
the starter's field coils don't conduct as well when hot, so the
starter can't crank as well when it's heat-soaked. If the starter
has never been (properly) rebuilt, the cloth wrap on the field coils
is likely shot and allowing some leakage through the windings. Also,
a partial short anywhere in the starting circuit could cause or
contribute to the problem; when the engine is cold, try
cranking--without a start if possible (I don't recall if the key
needs to be in 'run' to crank, if so you can disconnect the
low-voltage lead to the coil)--and feel the cables and connection
points, if any feel inordinately warm check them out. A failing
starter solenoid could also contribute (though that's usually more
random--at first). I had starter issues--not heat-related--with my
BN2, after a starter rebuild. I finally figured out that, after the
rebuild I'd put Grade 8 flat washers and split washers under the
nuts on the starter bolts; it turns out I'd impinged the path to
ground with the flat washers, when I took them off the starter
worked as it should.<br>
<br>
Mike Martinez at Star Auto Electric has done starter and generator
rebuilds for me, and knows Healeys: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://starautoelectric.com/";>http://starautoelectric.com/</a>Â
(NFI)<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/5/2020 7:24 AM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAB3i7LL781Zc7ZLSybvTdqLUFjWPNot00xQiRpKxEJtHZLxH0g@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="auto">Hi Gary,
<div dir="auto">In my experience it is difficult to accurately
determine the cause of starting problems without some
diagnosis. </div>
<div dir="auto">Checking the voltage between the starter power
terminal and ground during activation of the starter is the
first thing to check.</div>
<div dir="auto">Typically there should be at least 10 volts
during this test.</div>
<div dir="auto">That said however, the symptoms that you
describe are pretty typical of a starter that is on the way
out.</div>
<div dir="auto">If the starter is starting to fail be carefulÂ
... applying power to a starter which is not turning can melt
the solder of the commutator which substantially increases the
cost of rebuilding the unit.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">M</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun., Jul. 5, 2020, 9:06
a.m. warthodson--- via Healeys, <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target="_blank"
rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div style="color:black;font:12pt Comic Sans MS,sans-serif">A
friend's 100 appears to have an issue with his starter. On a
recent day trip, the car started fine in the morning at home
& would re-start again if the car had time to cool down
after stopping. But if the car was only stopped for a short
time, like at a gas station, before re-starting the starter
would barely turn the engine over, if at all. He has a new
battery & the ignition lite
<div>was lit when the engine was not running & was not
lit when it was running. Does this indicate something is
wrong with the starter & what is it?</div>
<div>Gary Hodson </div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</body>
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