Hi, Allen -
You are trying to remove the nuts in the wrong direction. On the left side of
the car (from the rear, facing forward) the nut is a left-hand thread.
Unscrew it clockwise. The other nut is a normal right-hand thread.
Here's a technique that worked for me to solve problem of the socket slipping
off the nut: use a screw jack and a short piece of 2 x 4 to support the
socket/ratchet where they join. Adjust the jack to support the socket/ratchet
in a plane parallel to the floor. This will prevent the hammer blows from
twisting the socket off the nut.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen C Miller, Jr.
To: Jim LeBlanc ; David Koch ; Dave & Marlene ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 7:00 AM
Subject: 2-gorilla job?
IThanks to all who provided earlier guidance on seals. Unfortunately I
haven't
been able to use it yet. have tried in vane to unfasten the rear axle
securing nut. I'm using the 8-sided OEM nut socket and a 2-foot drive bar
and
a 5# hand sledge. Will not budge forward or back. Whoever (whatever) put
the
nut on the last time was a better man (gorilla) than I. Admittedly, I don't
have another gorilla to hold the nut socket tight against the nut, and
there
is a little play, so the hammer can only land 2 or at bets three blows
before
it slides off the nut.
I am assuming the locking nut is undone the same way knock-offs are turned
.
Is it correct to undo the left CCW and the right CW (i.e., top of nut turns
toward front on each side, bottom towards rear)?
Before I give up, is it safe to apply torch heat to the nut to get it out?
I
welcome all suggestions I'm a little worn out from this one. Any help
appreciated.
Allen
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