Don,
Sounds like your calipers are sticking or binding somehow. New pads come with
quite a bit of material--3/10 of an inch or more, maybe--but I've never had a
problem pushing
the pistons in and putting the new pads in.
I believe there were different thickness of rotors for Healeys with disk
brakes. Earlier cars
had a thinner rotor, and the later cars had a rotor almost 1/2 inch thick. I
don't know when the
parts were changed, but it's possible--if you have an earlier BJ8--that someone
fitted the thicker
rotor to a car that should have the thinner ones. I believe the calipers are
different, and this might
explain your problem. Doesn't sound like the runout is an issue.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
> Hi, listers,
> As I dig deeper into my car, I find strange things, so need your guidance,
>please.
> It started with a click in the Lt Ft wheel area that would stop with light
>brake application. When I jacked up the
> wheels free of the ground, there was a significant bind in the Lt. Ft. wheel.
>Removing the wheel , I found I had to
> drive the pads out from the caliper, not like they are supposed to be. The
>hub then turned free and easy with no play.
> I tried to push the pistons deeper into the caliper but they seemed to be
>bottomed out. The pads were in very good
> condition, bearing the identifcation in yellow ink, "WED 29 FFNG". The rotor
>run-out, after I got a better indicator
> mount, was less than 0.001 in., and the rotor thickness was 0.489 in. (The
>rotor on the Rt side is 0.420in.) Where do
> I go next? I'll replace the pads on both sides, but do they need to be ground
>to fit the space available in the
> caliper? Is there something more I should do before I start reassembling?
>Please pass on to me your infinite wisdom so
> I can get her back on the road.
> Thanks,
> DON BJ8 Pandora
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