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I'm going to chime in here and probably show my ignorance. I've had a few
race cars, a TR3A, two TR4's, a TR4A IRS and now a TR6. I always followed
what I considered to be the common knowledge principles in these cars,
followed what Kas said to do, and they were similarly equipped to what Todd
describes. I dropped them, stiffened them and put on a big front sway bar.
I shortened the upper a-arms (non-adjustable), and on the TR4A, I put in
Richard Good's adjustable trailing arm mounts and cranked them all the way
negative. That car actually handled really well with Richards front and
rear swaybars. The only thing I ever changed was the rear sway bar
settings. I left a lot on the table.
Now I'm going through the TR6 I got from Sam Halkias. This car was set up
to run on slicks and it too was set up stiff as a board, maybe a steel
plate. It is fast but extremely twitchy. Awful in the rain. The front is
traditional TR but with coil overs and adjustable upper a-arms. The
steering rack is mounted on off the shelf Moss aluminum mounts. I had to
lower the rack in the 4A, so I will work on that. In the rear, the
coilovers are installed in the spring pockets with a custom located upper
mount giving about 10 degrees angle. Sam constructed a custom sway bar and
it mounts to the trailing arm where the lever shock would.
I've been studying up and getting myself confused as I try and plan for
setting up the car in a more compliant manner. I've dropped the rear spring
rate from 700 top 450 but added adjustable shocks to help control
the trailing arm. I'm hoping this will allow me to tune with the sway bar,
which Sam had told me to leave disconnected. It did not have
adjustable links but it does now. Once I get the engine back in and all the
weight back in the car I will start on camber settings. I'm pretty sure
that the current setup for use with cantilever slicks needs more camber for
the radials Toyo's I'll be running.
I have a lot to learn, and I hope to get the car up and running and
start messing with setup in the Texas spring, earlier than most of you. We
race in late February. I wish I was as smart as Tony Garmey with these
things. Beyond his exceptional driving skills, he has his suspension set up
to keep the tire patches in all the right places. We can all get the
recipes for the cars but the devil is in the details of car setup.
The devil is also in my head, messing with my through processing as I work
through this...............
Bob K
On Sat, Jan 10, 2026 at 9:07=E2=80=AFAM Alfetta95 via Fot <fot@autox.team.n=
et>
wrote:
> Thank you all for your responses Some have asked so here is my current
> setup.
>
> - Lowered the car by flipping and swapping the front lower control arms
> and lowering blocks in the rear
> - front springs - whatever was available in the 60=E2=80=99s
> - 7/8=E2=80=9D front sway bar
> - no rear sway bar
> - stock front shocks (Konis ordered)
> - rear shocks - whatever was used in the 60=E2=80=99s (Getting rebuilt)
> - stock rear springs with cut outs for the wider tires, 6 leafs
> - Hoosier Speedsters 205/60. 15x6 rims
> - Blackline LSD
>
> Todd
>
> > On Jan 9, 2026, at 1:44=E2=80=AFPM, Alfetta95 <alfetta95@optonline.net>=
wrote:
> >
> > =EF=BB=BFFriends,
> >
> > What are you TR3 guys using for front and rear springs? Mine are still
> from when my father raced the car 50yrs ago. Anyone using the Racetoratio=
ns
> comp rear springs?
> >
> > I=E2=80=99ve ordered the Koni shocks for front and am having the rear s=
hocks
> rebuilt.
> >
> > When Tony Garmey passed me in the left hander at Lime Rock I thought,
> =E2=80=9Chmm that car didn=E2=80=99t show body roll=E2=80=9D. It was the=
n I decided to have a look
> at mine.
> >
> > Any info is helpful
> > Todd
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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>
>
>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">I'm going to chime in here and probably show my ignora=
nce. I've had a=C2=A0 few race cars, a TR3A, two TR4's, a TR4A IRS =
and now a TR6. I always followed what I considered to be the common knowled=
ge principles in these cars, followed what Kas said to do, and they were si=
milarly equipped to what Todd describes. I dropped them, stiffened them and=
put on a big front sway bar. I shortened the upper a-arms (non-adjustable)=
, and on the TR4A, I put in Richard Good's adjustable=C2=A0trailing=C2=
=A0arm mounts=C2=A0and cranked them all the way negative. That car actually=
handled really well with Richards front and rear swaybars. The only thing =
I ever changed was the rear sway bar settings. I left a lot on the table.<d=
iv><br></div><div>Now I'm going through the TR6 I got from Sam Halkias.=
This car was set up to run on slicks and it too was set up stiff as a boar=
d,=C2=A0maybe a steel plate. It is fast but extremely twitchy. Awful in the=
rain. The front is traditional TR but with coil overs and adjustable upper=
a-arms. The steering rack is mounted on off=C2=A0the shelf Moss aluminum m=
ounts. I had to lower the rack in the 4A, so I will work on that. In the re=
ar, the coilovers are installed in the spring pockets with a custom located=
upper mount giving about 10 degrees angle. Sam constructed a custom sway b=
ar and it mounts to the trailing arm where the lever shock would.=C2=A0</di=
v><div><br></div><div>I've been studying up and getting myself confused=
as I try and plan for setting up the car in a more compliant manner. I'=
;ve dropped the rear spring rate from 700 top 450 but added adjustable=C2=
=A0shocks to help control the=C2=A0trailing arm. I'm hoping this will a=
llow me to tune with the sway bar, which Sam had told me to leave disconnec=
ted. It did not have adjustable=C2=A0links but it does now. Once I get the =
engine back in and all the weight back in the car I will start on camber se=
ttings. I'm pretty=C2=A0sure that the current setup for use with cantil=
ever slicks needs more camber for the radials Toyo's I'll be runnin=
g.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>I have a lot to learn, and I hope to get =
the car up and running and start=C2=A0messing with setup in the Texas sprin=
g, earlier than most of you. We race in late February.=C2=A0 I wish I was a=
s smart as Tony Garmey with these things. Beyond his exceptional driving sk=
ills, he has his suspension set up to keep the tire patches in all the righ=
t places. We can all get the recipes for the cars but the devil is in the d=
etails of car setup.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>The devil is also=
in my head, messing with my through processing as I work through this.....=
..........</div><div><br></div><div>Bob K</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmai=
l_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat=
, Jan 10, 2026 at 9:07=E2=80=AFAM Alfetta95 via Fot <<a href=3D"mailto:f=
ot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px soli=
d rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Thank you all for your responses Some =
have asked so here is my current setup. <br>
<br>
- Lowered the car by flipping and swapping the front lower control arms and=
lowering blocks in the rear <br>
- front springs - whatever was available in the 60=E2=80=99s<br>
- 7/8=E2=80=9D=C2=A0 front sway bar<br>
- no rear sway bar<br>
- stock front shocks (Konis ordered)<br>
- rear shocks - whatever was used in the 60=E2=80=99s (Getting rebuilt)<br>
- stock rear springs with cut outs for the wider tires, 6 leafs<br>
- Hoosier Speedsters 205/60. 15x6 rims<br>
- Blackline LSD<br>
<br>
Todd<br>
<br>
> On Jan 9, 2026, at 1:44=E2=80=AFPM, Alfetta95 <<a href=3D"mailto:al=
fetta95@optonline.net" target=3D"_blank">alfetta95@optonline.net</a>> wr=
ote:<br>
> <br>
> =EF=BB=BFFriends,<br>
> <br>
> What are you TR3 guys using for front and rear springs? Mine are still=
from when my father raced the car 50yrs ago. Anyone using the Racetoration=
s comp rear springs?<br>
> <br>
> I=E2=80=99ve ordered the Koni shocks for front and am having the rear =
shocks rebuilt.<br>
> <br>
> When Tony Garmey passed me in the left hander at Lime Rock I thought, =
=E2=80=9Chmm that car didn=E2=80=99t show body roll=E2=80=9D.=C2=A0 It was =
then I decided to have a look at mine.=C2=A0 <br>
> <br>
> Any info is helpful<br>
> Todd<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net<=
/a><br>
<br>
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http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br>
<br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"noreferrer" targe=
t=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a> <a href=3D"http://www.team.n=
et/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://www.team.net/pipermail/fot<br>
t/rkramer56@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
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