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Re: [Fot] Wheel stud

To: DENNIS WALJE <walje@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Wheel stud
From: Robert Lang via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2023 13:35:18 +0000 (UTC)
Cc: Amici Triumphi <fot@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
References: <A192BAC2-906C-44AB-A027-9FEAEAD06A1F@sbcglobal.net> <2A63282D-485F-427A-BEEA-52C345357FDD@multivintage.com>
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 I totally agree - at the very least, you should be using 7/16"-20 studs. I=
'm not 100% certain, but I'm pretty sure that the TR6 stud knurl is the sam=
e or "close enough" to the Spitfire because one of the locals used to take =
my TR6 cast-off studs for his Spitfire. But if you need to play with whee s=
pacers, look at the offerings from ARP. Totally worth the money. Get the bu=
llet-nose style - they really help to avoid cross threading when you're thr=
ashing to get the wheels on before a session. Not that THAT ever happens.
Regards,Bob Lang

    On Wednesday, October 4, 2023 at 07:42:05 AM EDT, Jason Ostrowski via F=
ot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote: =20
=20
 Perhaps here it is best to Try=C2=A0 something different and way better...=
It seems your best option would be to upgrade to a larger wheel stud. The S=
tock OEM size ones you mention are not the best option for GT6ing=20
A bit of searching for=C2=A0 a lhicker and longer wheel stud may give you b=
etter and more available options. A good machinist can=E2=80=99t help custo=
mize wheel holes or lug nuts.
Good luck. I=E2=80=99ve figured out a few custom lug but/ wheel combos this=
 year using Common=C2=A0 stuff from Summit racing.=20
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
1969 Triumph GT6+ racecars=20
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 2, 2023, at 9:40 AM, DENNIS WALJE via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wro=
te:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> Friends
>=20
> Does anyone have a part number or source for wheel studs on a 68 Mk1 GT6?=
=C2=A0=20
>=20
> I need the OEM stud 1/4=E2=80=9D longer. I am using wider VTO wheels and =
the inside rear tire is too close to the radius arm. The VTO wheels have ac=
orn lug nuts and I am limited to the OEM 3/8=E2=80=9D stud, and the acorn l=
ug nut limits the length.
>=20
> Thanks for your help=20
>=20
> Dennis Walje
>=20
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>=20
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason@multi=
vintage.com
>=20
>=20
_______________________________________________
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@yahoo.com


 =20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydpd81d4091yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px=
;"><div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I totally agree - at the ver=
y least, you should be using 7/16"-20 studs. I'm not 100% certain, but I'm =
pretty sure that the TR6 stud knurl is the same or "close enough" to the Sp=
itfire because one of the locals used to take my TR6 cast-off studs for his=
 Spitfire. But if you need to play with whee spacers, look at the offerings=
 from ARP. Totally worth the money. Get the bullet-nose style - they really=
 help to avoid cross threading when you're thrashing to get the wheels on b=
efore a session. Not that THAT ever happens.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-set=
dir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Regards,</di=
v><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Bob Lang<br></div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydp8a41cb7yahoo_quoted_7001381379" class=3D"ydp8a4=
1cb7yahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Wednesday, October 4, 2023 at 07:42:05 AM EDT, Jason=
 Ostrowski via Fot &lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div dir=3D"ltr">Perhaps here it is best to Try&nbsp; =
something different and way better...It seems your best option would be to =
upgrade to a larger wheel stud. The Stock OEM size ones you mention are not=
 the best option for GT6ing <br clear=3D"none">A bit of searching for&nbsp;=
 a lhicker and longer wheel stud may give you better and more available opt=
ions. A good machinist can=E2=80=99t help customize wheel holes or lug nuts=
.<br clear=3D"none">Good luck. I=E2=80=99ve figured out a few custom lug bu=
t/ wheel combos this year using Common&nbsp; stuff from Summit racing. <br =
clear=3D"none">Jason Ostrowski<br clear=3D"none">Friendly Ghost Racing<br c=
lear=3D"none">1969 Triumph GT6+ racecars <br clear=3D"none">Sent from my iP=
hone<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">&gt; On Oct 2, 2023, at 9:40 AM, =
DENNIS WALJE via Fot &lt;<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.ne=
t" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br =
clear=3D"none">&gt; <br clear=3D"none">&gt; =EF=BB=BF<br clear=3D"none">&gt=
; Friends<br clear=3D"none">&gt; <br clear=3D"none">&gt; Does anyone have a=
 part number or source for wheel studs on a 68 Mk1 GT6?&nbsp; <br clear=3D"=
none">&gt; <br clear=3D"none">&gt; I need the OEM stud 1/4=E2=80=9D longer.=
 I am using wider VTO wheels and the inside rear tire is too close to the r=
adius arm. The VTO wheels have acorn lug nuts and I am limited to the OEM 3=
/8=E2=80=9D stud, and the acorn lug nut limits the length.<br clear=3D"none=
">&gt; <br clear=3D"none">&gt; Thanks for your help <br clear=3D"none">&gt;=
 <br clear=3D"none">&gt; Dennis Walje<br clear=3D"none">&gt; <br clear=3D"n=
one">&gt; Sent from my iPhone<br clear=3D"none">&gt; ______________________=
_________________________<br clear=3D"none">&gt; <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"=
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