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Thanks to everyone's advice, I was able to separate the OD from the transm=
ission, replace the adapter plate and get the OD back on.=C2=A0 The PO had =
already added the extra studs at the bottom, but I guess with the plate ben=
t, those extra studs were not enough.=C2=A0 I got an upgraded (thicker near=
bottom) adapter plate from Quantum Mechanics, who had everything I needed =
in stock.=C2=A0 Apparently the plate that Moss sells is also upgraded, but =
their website showed it as out of stock.=C2=A0=C2=A0
After filling it with oil, I found a drip from the big brass plug, even tho=
ugh I put a new gasket there.=C2=A0 Added some Hylomar and cured that leak.=
=C2=A0 After it was back in the car for a few days, found a drip from where=
the rear housing splits.=C2=A0 Oh well, I'm not taking that apart.=C2=A0 M=
ost of the leaking has stopped.=C2=A0=C2=A0
Thanks again for the advice.=C2=A0 JoeB
On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 08:15:34 AM EDT, yellow04 via Fot <f=
ot@autox.team.net> wrote: =20
=20
=20
Joe,
If your gearbox has slowly started leaking around the adapter plate, in all=
likelihood the issue is the six bolts that hold the plate to the back of t=
he gearbox have loosened up. If nobody safety wired them or didn't use any =
kind of threadlocker on them, this is typically the problem when leaks slow=
ly start in this area. The likelihood of needing to replace the adapter pla=
te is not all that high, assuming the leak is not huge and you have not bee=
n driving the car with copious amounts of oil leaking about.
The adapter plate is not part of the overdrive unit, so replacing only the =
adapter plate is not too difficult. Six nuts hold the OD unit to the adapte=
r plate, remove the nuts from the 4 short studs first, then start working t=
he nuts on the two long studs evenly, and spring pressure should separate t=
he OD unit from the adapter plate. Pay attention to the 8 springs as you sl=
ide the OD unit off the mainshaft, when they fall out they like to roll und=
er things. Place the OD unit aside, other that cleaning the gasket surface =
you will not be messing with that.
I use the little bottle of Permatex Aviation gasket sealer for gearboxs, se=
ems to work well for me.
The six bolts that attach the adapter plate to the back of the gearbox case=
are now visible, if these bolts are not properly torqued you just found th=
e source of your leak. Remove them, clean up your gasket surfaces and resea=
l. The same gasket is used here as the non-overdrive gearbox.=C2=A0 Rimmers=
sells bolts specifically for this application, they have threadlocker that=
is safe for the aluminum case on the threads. They have been working for m=
e.=C2=A0These 6 bolts may be safety wired, always a good idea if you don't =
buy a set of new bolts from Rimmers. If you go the safety wire route, pay a=
ttention to the parts as it is easy to run the wire in such a way that it f=
ouls when the OD unit is installed.
The last adapter plate I bought from Rimmers was embossed with "ORS", I bel=
ieve it was made by Overdrive Repair Services, the business started by Layc=
ock employees after Laycock closed their doors. I didn't really compare it =
to a Triumph adapter plate, but I can see how John Esposito might call it a=
n upgraded adapter plate. If you need one, I'd just order it from Rimmers a=
long with those 6 bolts.=C2=A0
Assembling the OD unit back onto the gearbox is where the real fun is, you =
need to line up two sets of splines in the OD unit, compress the 8 springs =
and make sure you don't foul the oil pump plunger on the cam. Many ways to =
accomplish this, some are tedious, frustrating, and can completely drive yo=
u crazy. The easiest way I have found is to safety wire the pump plunger, i=
nstall the pump drive cam and make sure it is pointing away from the pump, =
apply the sealant to the gasket and place in on the OD unit, align the spli=
nes in the OD unit, (a spare OD mainshaft is really helpful with this) and =
offer up the OD unit to the box. Slowly slide the unit on assuring everythi=
ng is lined up until the gasket is almost touching the adapter plate. Then,=
install the nuts and washers on the long studs only a couple of turns. The=
n you slide the OD unit backwards WITHOUT TURNING the rear flange until it =
hits the nuts. Then you install the 8 springs in their correct position, (s=
horts go inboard, longs go outboard) by stuffing them onto their posts on t=
he sliding member then levering the other end onto the nubs on the adapter =
plate. Take a really good look to make sure you have all 8 springs correctl=
y installed, then tighten the nuts equally to draw the OD unit home. Then i=
nstall the 4 nuts and washers on the short studs, remove the safety wire on=
the oil pump plunger, refill with oil and you are good to go.
If you run into problems or need to borrow a spare OD mainshaft to line up =
the splines in the OD unit, feel free to reach out!
Henry
=20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp298e709byahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px=
;"><div></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Thanks to everyone's advice,=
I was able to separate the OD from the transmission, replace the adapter p=
late and get the OD back on. The PO had already added the extra studs=
at the bottom, but I guess with the plate bent, those extra studs were not=
enough. I got an upgraded (thicker near bottom) adapter plate from Q=
uantum Mechanics, who had everything I needed in stock. Apparently th=
e plate that Moss sells is also upgraded, but their website showed it as ou=
t of stock. </div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></d=
iv><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">After filling it with oil, I foun=
d a drip from the big brass plug, even though I put a new gasket there.&nbs=
p; Added some Hylomar and cured that leak. After it was back in the c=
ar for a few days, found a drip from where the rear housing splits. O=
h well, I'm not taking that apart. Most of the leaking has stopped.&n=
bsp; </div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Thanks again for the advice. JoeB</div=
><div><br></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"ydp8baed301yahoo_quoted_7230176295" class=3D"ydp8b=
aed301yahoo_quoted">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div>
On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 08:15:34 AM EDT, yel=
low04 via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><div id=3D"ydp8baed301yiv8459131440"><div>
<p>Joe,</p>
<p>If your gearbox has slowly started leaking around the adapter plate, in =
all likelihood the issue is the six bolts that hold the plate to the back o=
f the gearbox have loosened up. If nobody safety wired them or didn't use a=
ny kind of threadlocker on them, this is typically the problem when leaks s=
lowly start in this area. The likelihood of needing to replace the adapter =
plate is not all that high, assuming the leak is not huge and you have not =
been driving the car with copious amounts of oil leaking about.</p>
<p>The adapter plate is not part of the overdrive unit, so replacing only t=
he adapter plate is not too difficult. Six nuts hold the OD unit to the ada=
pter plate, remove the nuts from the 4 short studs first, then start workin=
g the nuts on the two long studs evenly, and spring pressure should separat=
e the OD unit from the adapter plate. Pay attention to the 8 springs as you=
slide the OD unit off the mainshaft, when they fall out they like to roll =
under things. Place the OD unit aside, other that cleaning the gasket surfa=
ce you will not be messing with that.</p>
<p>I use the little bottle of Permatex Aviation gasket sealer for gearboxs,=
seems to work well for me.</p>
<p>The six bolts that attach the adapter plate to the back of the gearbox c=
ase are now visible, if these bolts are not properly torqued you just found=
the source of your leak. Remove them, clean up your gasket surfaces and re=
seal. The same gasket is used here as the non-overdrive gearbox. Rimm=
ers sells bolts specifically for this application, they have threadlocker t=
hat is safe for the aluminum case on the threads. They have been working fo=
r me. These 6 bolts may be safety wired, always a good idea if you don=
't buy a set of new bolts from Rimmers. If you go the safety wire route, pa=
y attention to the parts as it is easy to run the wire in such a way that i=
t fouls when the OD unit is installed.</p>
<p>The last adapter plate I bought from Rimmers was embossed with "ORS", I =
believe it was made by Overdrive Repair Services, the business started by L=
aycock employees after Laycock closed their doors. I didn't really compare =
it to a Triumph adapter plate, but I can see how John Esposito might call i=
t an upgraded adapter plate. If you need one, I'd just order it from Rimmer=
s along with those 6 bolts. </p>
<p>Assembling the OD unit back onto the gearbox is where the real fun is, y=
ou need to line up two sets of splines in the OD unit, compress the 8 sprin=
gs and make sure you don't foul the oil pump plunger on the cam. Many ways =
to accomplish this, some are tedious, frustrating, and can completely drive=
you crazy. The easiest way I have found is to safety wire the pump plunger=
, install the pump drive cam and make sure it is pointing away from the pum=
p, apply the sealant to the gasket and place in on the OD unit, align the s=
plines in the OD unit, (a spare OD mainshaft is really helpful with this) a=
nd offer up the OD unit to the box. Slowly slide the unit on assuring every=
thing is lined up until the gasket is almost touching the adapter plate. Th=
en, install the nuts and washers on the long studs only a couple of turns. =
Then you slide the OD unit backwards WITHOUT TURNING the rear flange until =
it hits the nuts. Then you install the 8 springs in their correct position,=
(shorts go inboard, longs go outboard) by stuffing them onto their posts o=
n the sliding member then levering the other end onto the nubs on the adapt=
er plate. Take a really good look to make sure you have all 8 springs corre=
ctly installed, then tighten the nuts equally to draw the OD unit home. The=
n install the 4 nuts and washers on the short studs, remove the safety wire=
on the oil pump plunger, refill with oil and you are good to go.</p>
<p>If you run into problems or need to borrow a spare OD mainshaft to line =
up the splines in the OD unit, feel free to reach out!</p>
<p>Henry</p>
<div id=3D"ydp8baed301yiv8459131440yqt59130" class=3D"ydp8baed301yiv8459131=
440yqt7391256043"><p id=3D"ydp8baed301yiv8459131440reply-intro"><br></p></d=
iv></div></div><div class=3D"ydp8baed301yqt7391256043" id=3D"ydp8baed301yqt=
77198"><br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none"></div></div>
</div>
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