According to the analysis I did with my suspension software (SuspPro) the most
useful way to change camber on a TR3 is to move the upper arms inward and keep
them the same length. I use the TR6 bits to get caster and cut the upper arms
to add heim joints to make an adjustable arm, but the length is close to
stock, just has the pivot moved inwards.
If you shorten the upper A arms you wind up with a lot of camber at full bump.
It's also pretty hard to get the bump steer out with shorter arms, the outer
pivot point moves well inside the lower pivot.
On Mar 10, 2013, at 12:35 PM, "Stutzmans" <stutzmans@comcast.net> wrote:
> Although the manual doesn't say so; I think that when they went to what
would be the TR6 upper A arms and ball joint and 3 deg. trunnions (CT6345),
the camber changed to 0 deg. from the TR3 and early TR4 2 deg. positive.
> Bruce
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Young" <cartravel@pobox.com>
> To: <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 11:42 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Neg. camber on 1964 tr4
>
>
>> It seems like it would be difficult to get enough change in camber for a
TR3/4 by reversing the fulcrum. The factory spec is +2 degrees, so it takes
quite a lot to get to -2. Lowering helps a little, less than 1/2 degree. If
you shorten the upper A arms as many of us have done, you have to remove at
least 1/2 inch. I wrote a short report when I studied the suspension on my
TR3 (see http://tildentechnologies.com/downloads/TRsuspension.PDF). There is a
neat way to shorten the upper A arms that I discovered from Bob Kramer that
does not involve cutting them in two. I can put up a photo if anyone is
interested in it. The modification is not obvious for organizations that do
not permit Heim joints, etc.
>> Larry
>>
>> On 3/9/2013 1:14 PM, Tony Drews wrote:
>>> What Richard Good just described for the TR-6 applies to the TR-4 as
well.
>>>
>>> Tony
>>>
>>> Richard's message if you missed it:
>>> "Reversing the upper fulcrum from factory orientation pulls the control
arms in 1/4" and adds about 1.3 degrees negative camber if I remember my
calculations correctly. You can do it without removing the control arms from
the fulcrum. Just remove the four bolts holding the fulcrum to the tower and
the two bolts through the ball joint and remove the whole assembly. Then hold
the fulcrum and spin the control arms 180 degrees then bolt the whole assembly
on the other side of the car. This keeps the front control arm in the front
but reverses the fulcrum.
>>>
>>> Preferred camber will depend on the tires. The Hoosier A6's that I run
for autocross and hillclimb want 3 degrees. They are 225/45-15 on 7" rims.
To get that much camber and to keep the tires clear of my unmodified fenders I
reversed the fulcrums and then slotted the bolt holes to slide them in even
further. I just took the worn out tires off and the fronts wore fairly even.
The rears were also set at 3 degrees but wore more on the inside from
squatting under power. I backed it off to 2 degrees to see how that works
out. Also changed to a slightly stiffer spring."
>>>
>>> At 11:22 PM 3/8/2013, Jon Gannaway wrote:
>>>> I am preparing a 1964 tr4 to vintage race in California. I am looking
for
>>>> simple and easy ways to get negative camber in the car. Any
suggestions
>>>> would be helpful.
>>>>
>>>> Jon Gannaway
>>>> 831-402-4080
>>>>
>>>>
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