Henry
I just went through the same process on a later model 1974 with a retard
mechanism and a 1970 with dualing advance mechansisms.
I set the basic timing to 12deg BTDC, left the retard diaphragm without
a vacuum line. On the later model I left the only diaphragm (retard)
unplugged to vacuum.
Depending on your setup, I had triple Strombergs and dual downdraft Webers,
the only required vacuum is for the advance if available, Booster, and
Crankcase ventilation.
Performance should be good with that setup..
Good luck
Glenn
On 7/3/2011 9:44 AM, Henry Morrison wrote:
> From: dos_gusanos@msn.com
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Fot] TR6 Timing
> Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 07:11:13 -0600
>
>
>
>
>
> Good morning group, I just rebuilt my engine on my '69 Kmart TR6 (that means
> it's safe to drive this one to Kmart) otherwise known as "Rusty". I glanced
> at the timing specs and set it at the 4 degrees at 800 of thereabouts. I
> broke in the cam and then, after plugging various oil leaks took her for a
> spin. The car felt fair but not as good as I would like so I came home and
> put her to bed. Most of the original vacuum set up is there, although not
> properly hooked up. I checked the timing yesterday and only one vacuum line
> was hooked up. Apparently this is the retard unit hooked up to a port
> directly in front of the "5" stamped in the top of the carburetor. This set
> up hauls the advance backward at a progressively higher rate as you increase
> rpms, ie 8-10 degrees at full advance. The advance side of the distributor is
> not hooked up. I unplugged everything and set the timing at 30 degrees full
> advance, but havent driven around the block. There is another vacuum leak
> every time I look at the thing. I lay all the blame for this directly at the
> feet of the PREVIOUS OWNER. I would also like to direct some blame to the BL
> exec who thought up this dueling distributor idea.
>
> Cheers, Henry Morrison, Cedar Crest, NM
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