In a message dated 5/4/06 8:36:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
ryoung@navcomtech.com writes:
<< Fair amount of machining. Center hole has to be opened up, and the lip at
the
rim machined away. How much the lip has to be machined appears to vary from
Triumph to Triumph. For a (solid axle) TR4 with stock wheel studs, you will
also have to open up the holes for the studs. The stock studs screw in from
the
face of the hub and have a flange that the drum must fit over.
>>
I bought a set of Alfin Brake Drums from Moss many years ago, and finally got
around to using them for the past two seasons (1959 TR-3). I originally
thought that all I had to do was install the smaller brake backing plates and
slip
on the drums. No, I was into the same maneuvers as outlined above.
<<I'm still looking for a set of the (mythical ?) Moroso studs that screw in
from the other side ... several people already have these, but it seems Moroso
no longer makes them.>>
I have been using the 7/16" Moroso three inch long splined wheel studs for
many years. I miced the splines and drilled out the threaded hub holes with a
bit slightly smaller than the spline diameter. Then the stud is fed in from
the back of the hub, and the splines under the stud head are pulled into the
drilled out hub holes with a lug nut.
Washers were then threaded and screwed onto the studs, after being ground
down to the size of the brake drum holes. Later, I had a machinist make me
some
better collars to screw onto the studs.
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