Dear Allen
I would stick with a standard crank. I have been racing my TR5 on a standard
crank for nearly 30 years and have never had a failure. I regularly use 7000+
rpm and that is with the standard damper and a lightened cast flywheel. You
should preferably use a long back crank which is already cross-drilled or have
the later short back crank cross-drilled. Have it nitrided and use 8 bolts to
fix the flywheel. I have recently invested in a set of steel rods as a
precaution although I have had no problems with race prepared standard rods.
I am preparing a 77.5mm engine for the 2006 season and have just sold my old
76.2mm short engine. The crank that was in that engine has been in the car
since 1994 and apart from a regrind has never been touched.
You should be able to buy and prepare a standard crank for less than #500
whereas a steel crank in the UK will set you back #2500 plus you will need a
special harmonic damper which is another #500. The guys over here using steel
cranks are only revving to 7500 with occasional bursts to 8000rpm.
Regards
Mike Hughes
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