Hi Ed --
I've done about 30 big TR engines. I always use ARP bolts and red Loctite
on flywheels, and torque them to the factory spec. I haven't had a failure.
Torquing with lube primarily tightens the bolt further (puts more tension
in the bolt) for the same torque wrench reading, plus it gives a more
accurate torque wrench reading. Loctite must be used on a dry joint (no
lubricant on threads) so the two seem mutually exclusive, unless you want
to try to apply lube only to the underside of the bolt head.
I use red Loctite because lab tests have shown that the two single most
effective fastener retention methods are proper torque and red Loctite.
Metal tabs are the least effective, so I always throw them away. Be careful
when using the ARP bolts on the flywheel, for another reason. If you are
using the aftermarket seal, the ARPflywheel bolts are just enough longer
that they may contact the aluminum aftermarket seal housing. I grind about
1/16" off the bolts.
I suppose that it could be argued that with the ARP bolts being so much
harder, you don't get effective stretch in them when using no lube.
However, my logic is that the joint failing in tension is no longer as
likely as the threads in the crank deforming and allowing the parts to
start to move. Ruining cranks is not fun.
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