I have somewhere the necessary diagrams- just need to find them...
I also sell preload shims to fit between the Belleville washers and the
casing to set the slip at a higher torque, should you require.
Most road race cars are happiest on the stock setting (65-70 ft lb). The
diffs generally require fresh plates every 2 or 3 seasons, but
little else wears to any degree
All the best Jon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coffey, Jack" <CoffeyJack@bfusa.com>
To: "T.R. Scratchings" <wob@dandrade.freeserve.co.uk>
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 2:03 PM
Subject: RE: Limited slip Diff questions - part II
Jon....thank you very much for the expert information. Trying to look
at this logically as possible, I thought the washer spacer might work.
BTW...is it possible to get a schematic of LSD internals & instructions
on adjusting??? Can't seem to locate any info here.
Thanks again...Jack Coffey
-----Original Message-----
From: T.R. Scratchings [mailto:wob@dandrade.freeserve.co.uk]
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 4:45 AM
To: Rocky Entriken
Cc: Coffey, Jack; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Limited slip Diff questions - part II
This is quite common on Salisbury equipped cars: the clutch action locks
the
side gears on the spline as they ride the ramps, which pushes the stub
axle
through the bearing till it reaches the shoulder on the stub. On some
axles,
it's enough to allow the seal lip to slide onto the tapered end of the
output flange, allowing leakage. The solution is to remove each output
assembly, knock the bearing back up against the output flange, then
measure
the distance between the bearing and the shoulder. Subtract ,say,
0.015",
then have a machine shop make up a couple of hardened washers that fit
tightly up to the shoulder. Dismantle the flange, seal housing , and
bearing
from the stub, then reassemble with the washer on first. This stops the
stub
from walking through the bearing more than the 0.015" allowed. Hope this
helps you.
Jon Wood
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rocky Entriken" <rocky@tri.net>
To: "Coffey, Jack" <CoffeyJack@bfusa.com>; <FOT@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: Limited slip Diff questions - part II
> Sounds like something's broke!
>
> Stub axle should not move laterally. Assuming the flange is tightly
bolted
> to the diff case. Those bolts do come loose sometimes. Stock on mine
were
> Allen-head bolts. Replaced with Gr.8 hex-head and lockwashers. Not a
> fail-safe solution, but better than stock. Besides, I can pull the
torque
> tighter with an end-wrench than with an Allen wrench.
>
> My stubs happen to be out just now, so I went and measured the
movement.
One
> moves maybe 1/32", the other maybe 1/16".
>
> How about the bearing? Is it the right width? A too-narrow bearing
would
> permit more lateral movement in the flange.
>
> --Rocky
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Coffey, Jack" <CoffeyJack@bfusa.com>
> To: <FOT@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 8:18 AM
> Subject: Limited slip Diff questions - part II
>
>
> > OK...thanks to various FOT respondees, I've determined that LSDs
will
> > run hotter than an open diff & synthetic is a good way to go,
additional
> > cooling (finned cover, pump & external cooler) may be needed.
> >
> >
> >
> > I now have a new problem - diff began to leak heavily from left
side
> > flange area. This was caused by both stub axles moving outward
(about
> > 3/8") and seal also on left side. I've not experienced this
movement of
> > stub axles on stock diffs .
> >
> >
> >
> > Any ideas on cause / cure would be appreciated
> >
> >
> >
> > TIA - Jack Coffey (TR250)
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