This all reminds me, wasn't there an article in grassroots Motorsports
about how Tim and crew did this to their TR3? I recall that it was a nice,
clean setup using a slightly modified standard box and tiltons.
The other thing to consider while you're doing all this is that if you
pick the wrong size master cylinders your balance bar will run out of
adjustment. And make sure that you set up the release valves in the master
cylinders correctly--remove the valve from the MC for the rear brake,
leave it in for the front disk (or take it out and use the ancient triumph
one). Otherwise you'll always be two pumps away from brakes. And if you go
to an all-tilton setup, make sure you take it out for the clutch. That's a
costly lesson--I toasted a set of crankshaft thrust washers learning that.
The new tilton brake and clutch pedal boxes are much prettier and smaller
than the old ones.
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Marshall [mailto:marshall@nefcom.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 8:01 AM
To: tony@tonydrews.com; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder
Hi Tony, I used a TR6 pedal box with a Tilton balance bar welded to the
brake pedal. I drilled holes in the front of the pedal box and the
firewall to accept standard Girling MCs and a 1/4" steel plate with
appropriate holes to strengthen it all. I'm using early Spitfire MCs that
have the bowl angled so it matches the slant of the firewall. It all
works very well but was a lot of trouble to set up.
Since then, I've been told you can cut and weld 2 Spitfire MC brackets
together to hold the pair of MCs and mount them directly over the stock
TR4 pedals. I guess you would use a 3rd Spit bracket for the clutch MC
since the stock TR4 bracket would have to go.
All that being said, if I had it to do over again, I'd buy a Tilton pedal
set and MCs and be done with it.
Cheers, Don
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