Hi all!
I think all ya'll (yes, the ubiquitous plural of ya'll) are cute AND
dangerous! So there.
Really, I have a question for the collective wisdom before I pull the
trans on Tristan (again). He sat up for quite a time while I worked on
the house, etc. I finally got the engine running and went to put him
into gear for a test drive and the clutch was frozen. I thought a
simple bleed would take care of it, but it didn't. The clutch pedal
went to the floor while bleeding and froze again when the slave nipple
(NO comments allowed on that one, guys ;) was closed. Is this a symptom
of the throwout arm being messed up in some way, before I get into it,
or could there be a simpler fix, like whacking the end of the yoke pin
where it exits the trans case? I was told to put it into gear and try
to start it and that would unstick it, but when I did so, it started up
quite nicely in neutral and stayed there, no matter which gear I tried
to shift into. And whatever has happened did so on its own while it was
sitting (on jackstands with all 4 wheels off) in the garage.
And on the topic of clutches, I put a heavy-duty clutch from BPNW into
it when the clutch failed last year. Was that a smart move, or should I
have gone with a lighter-duty application? I am not using rocket
science (yet) in my "engineering" and am not trying to build the most
expensive car on the circuit -- just a good solid performer for me to
drive for several years and learn on before I get into the higher-end
stuff, so Tilton clutches and their bretheren are not on my list yet.
Speaking of the above, has anyone used the three-piece clutches? A
friend who raced a Spit for a while in SCCA (Darren Brown, who now is
making a name for himself in Formula Vee) told me he tried one in his
car but it didn't fit and needed considerable machining to make it work,
so he gave up. Are the benefits of these clutches solely for the
11/10ths drivers?
Thanks in advance!!
Keep Triumphing,
Susan :)
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