Synthetic
I refuse to use it on the grounds of cost - but there are other
reasons as well. I was in a UK store yesterday buying Duckhams 20/50
for my Triumph and pondered the cost for a five litre can of Mobil 1
5W/40. At GBP35 (US$50 approx) my mind didn't need any further
convincing. There are cheaper synthetics available here that claim to
meet Euro/API specs but a colleague in Land Rover engineering has
suggested I avoid them. Like many low cost mineral alternatives, there
is allegedly technical evidence they can be 'lacking' in certain
areas. I don't doubt Mobil 1 is probably the right oil for a given
task - but not at 10 bucks a litre and this price is not untypical in
the UK and follows our fuel prices as well. My own engine rarely
exceeds 3500rpm on any day, simply because of its high gearing and
overdrive on top of that. I'm hard pushed to keep within our speed
limits as it is! I hit the normal speed limit at about 2250 in O/D
fourth- so no-one could claim things are being stretched! So, do I
need a high spec oil for such gentle use?
On another tack, visitors to the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust
where I work, regularly ask whether synthetic is better than mineral
on 'classic' engines. The research we conducted with Rover engineering
and a number of technical people at clubs some two years ago, revealed
that "it depends on the engine." There is evidence that some old
engines are more tolerant of synthetics than others. MGB, BMC 'A'
series (Spridgets) and Triumphs as a whole don't seem too bothered
with synthetic, while Rover engines from the P6 (Rover 2000) and
certain Rootes Group cars - mainly Alpines, are allegedly not so
happy. I wouldn't say this is a firm ruling but evidenced by the
experience of users. Climate probably has a lot to do with it as well?
The UK climate is not an extreme one, so we don't (often) have
continuous high daily temps of 30degC +. Maybe this supports mineral
better? One man I know who fully rebuilt a Holbay engine from a
Sunbeam Rapier started using synthetic after about 7000 miles when
things had fully bedded down, only having to strip it out again
because the synthetic caused glazing in the bores. He now runs it on
GTX and claims the engine is quieter and more economical. All round, a
'modern' engine may be more suited to synthetic because of higher
operating pressures, speeds and temps. Another found that synthetic on
his Rover 2000TC quickly damaged the engine oil seals, so he's back on
mineral. All you can do is try it and see but I wouldn't agree that
synthetic is the obvious and logical choice for all engines purely
because of its undoubted technological strengths.
I also don't subscribe to laying up a car for the winter. I change the
oil and filter every 3000 miles or three months and use a flushing oil
every two changes. With 240,000 miles on the clock and no intermediate
oil top ups, I'm happy to stay with a good quality mineral and I doubt
I'd keep even a synthetic in an engine for up to 10,000 miles. My 1970
Triumph is used as a daily driver and alternates daily with my
eurobox. I also have access to an outside drive up ramp with a hot
high pressure washer so the effects of winter salt can be kept at bay.
I blast both cars at least once a month in winter - a messy job, but
worth it.
Waxoyl
A good product - if you can stand the smell, which I can't. I prefer
to use another product called Dinitrol, which while its more
expensive, remains more elastic - IOW it heals itself if a sharp stone
chip should briefly make a penetrating contact through to the paint..
I've just finished hand painting the underside of the car and each
wheelhouse with the stuff and last weekend did the sills. This
involved temporarily plugging the drain holes and spraying Dinitrol
into strategically drilled holes under each door kickplate that are
covered with rubber plugs. I then took the car for a good run along
some twisting roads and up/down hilly bits so the liquid slopped
around as much as possible. Then unplugged the drain holes two days
later and probed some wire through them so water can drain out. I
Dinitrol every two years and with the second layer now in place, its
also a bit quieter - I think.
Jonmac
MG 4305 DLO 1970 Triumph 2.5PI, TED 152318 1950 Ferguson TED20
"Children in back seats cause accidents. Accidents in back seats cause
children."
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