Hi Trevor:
Long time no speak. As I understand it, the biggest problem with waxoyl is
that is too stiff and cannot penetrate into small seams. Also, it cannot
reach a lot of the areas within box section sills and floor structures.
What I have been doing gets around this problem to a large degree. One of
my friends has been using this system for years. He closes off all of the
factory drains from sills using duct tape. He then drills a hole or two
under the door sill plate and then fills the entire volume with Tremclad
paint. He lets it sit then drains off the residue - collecting it in a
pan. He then uses the collected paint on the other sill. This method
ensures that the space is filled not simply sprayed in with a hope for the
best.
On a car such as a TR he will do the same with the frame - when he is doing
a restoration. He simply closes the openings and fills it, then lets it
drain. Doors can be treated this way while on the car as well as trunk
lids and hoods. It is simply a matter of letting the paint collect and
soak in.
This same technique can be used in other closed areas provided access is
available from above and drains can be closed below. This would work on
Spitfires where the cowls tend to rust out in the lower corners above the
sills. There are many other examples. Following this treatment, an
occasional oil soaking works well. The oil is poured in using the same
technique then allowed to drain. This only needs to be done every 2 or 3
years depending on conditions of use.
It is an effective and very efficient alternative to expensive Waxoyl. It
is also very cheap as a gallon of Tremclad vs a gallon of Waxoyl is no
contest for price.
John
>John McEwen wrote:
>> Waxoyl will solve rust problems
>
> Good post all around, but question...
>
> ...what do you consider the modern alternative to
>waxoyl?
>
>--
>Trevor Boicey, P. Eng.
>Ottawa, Canada, tboicey@brit.ca
>ICQ #17432933 http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/
>"At what point does a slow puncture just become a puncture?" Will Holman
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