Chris Kent Kantarjiev sez:
> but am wondering whether a little never-seize on the crank
> would be a good idea...any ideas out there? I wouldn't think the
> flywheel would loosen up, we do torque it to 150ft lbs.
>
>I can't believe that friction between the crank and flywheel was
>considered as part of the designed mechanism for keeping the 'wheel in
>place. Use the anti-seize.
Friction between the crank tail and the flywheel hub is most definately part
of the design. This is a taper seat, much like a (very!) large ball joint.
The fact that the flywheel/crank galled says that the components did move
around in relation to each other. Do NOT use lube or never-sieze here. Lap
in the joint very carefully, then over torque it. I believe Vizard said up to
450 ft-lbs. On my Mini, I stayed in the 250-300 range. Note that you will
still have to use the extreme brute force to remove the flywheel, but it
should no longer tear up the mating surfaces.
To back this up, notice that the Longman stroker cranks and ultra-light
flywheels do not have the radial keyway machined in, as this is a major
stress riser. Their design relies only on the friction.
Randy
randy@taylor.wyvern.com
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