->
-> 1) Are there any "official" jackpoints on a TR-6?
->
Generally the 'official' jack points are on the outside frame rail just
for/aft of the rear/front wheel.
-> The first few times I jacked up the car I did it a side at a
-> time, placing the jack on the frame just forward of where the
-> rear trailing arms connect. This worked (sorta), except that
-> my jackstands are tall enough that I really had to torque the
-> frame to get them under the car.
->
Yup. A fact of TR-6 life is that the frame has the torsional rigidity
of a garden hose with a snake inside.
-> Recently I've been lifting from the center of the car where the
-> frame members come to within 6" of each other and a corrugated
-> plate bridges the gap. This lifts the car without the side-to-
-> side torquing, but the plate deflects more than I'd like under
-> load.
->
I use the frame crossmember in the front and the bolt in the center of
the
trunk support (yup that little ity bity one), then put jackstands as close to
the axles as I can get them, depending on what the work to be done is. Never
cause my TR-6 any trouble.
-> Once I've got the car in the air I've been putting the jackstands
-> under the frame just forward of the rear wheels. This is stable
-> enough to make me happy, but it puts an "unnatural" load on the
-> frame (i.e., a lifting force at the center of the car as opposed
-> to the usual gravitational downward force).
->
But means you can open the doors while your working! :-)
-> Anyways, I'm not entirely happy with the approaches I've been
-> using to date, and I'd really rather not trash the frame in the
-> process of putting it in the air. Neither the owners manual
-> nor the two service manuals I have access to address the subject,
-> so I'm left in the dark. Any more experienced Triumph owners
-> care to enlighten me?
->
As I said, the frame has a wee bit of flex in it, always did. If you
can bend it, I'd be impressed though. I bent mine, but only by the
application of horsepower, and is a common TR-6 bug/feature. They bend
(twist actually) about 1/4" - 1/2" up in the right front due to torque
over the years. But the natural flex takes it all up when it's back on the
ground.
BTW: Had an interesting experience yesterday. Had the TR-6 up on two
whees and could tell. Not more than an inch or two, but definitely
noticeable.
-> 2) Is it typical for cars using Lucas electrics to "melt down"
-> various (expensive) components?
->
Not really. Check the value of the fuses. PO may have replaced the
5A with 30A.
-> While investigating the lack of panel lights I found that the
-> panel light rheostat had also been fried. I don't think it
-> actually caught fire, but it was literally cooked black.
->
Not the most amazing thing, but check that you're running on 12V, not
>14.
-> 3) Finally, as I've been playing electrician I've found that the
-> entire center portion of the backside of the dash is coated
-> with oil. I don't know if the previous owner was in the habit
-> of adding oil via the ash tray or what, but it is a real mess.
-> Where'd it all come from?
->
Ah, the mystery of the oiled radio returns. It comes from a loose
connection to the oil pressure guage. The way it works is via a
capilliary tube from the oil pump area of the block. if it's loose @
the dash end, you have 50-10psi oil leaking out... ->Thanks for the
help.
iii
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