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Re: More TR-6 Rear End

To: british-cars@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: More TR-6 Rear End
From: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 06:45:06 PST
Ron,

The shocks are easy to replace if you aren't satisified with them when
your finished.  Check the shock links.  If there's slop in them you
need to replace them.

I have replaced both rear wheel cylinders in my TR6.  The cost for a
kit is $5 and the cost of a new cylinder is $25.  If the wheel cylinder's
been leaking this means you need to replace the brake shoes since
they must be saturated with brake fluid.  For my money it wasn't worth
the cost and labor of replacing new brake shoes if the rebuild didn't
take.  Of course, you could wait to replace the brake shoes until after
you are sure the rebuilt wheel cylinders work.  I've never had to do
the front calipers.  Take a look in the master cylinder and if it is
smooth (no pit marks or scars) I'd take a chance on rebuilding it.
DON'T hone it out.  Clean inside of the cylinder out with a cloth and
brake fluid.

Concerning the knocking noise.  I wouldn't suspect the differental if
the knocking rate changed when you shift in the overdrive.  Does the
intensity of the knock decrease when you shift into overdrive?  Is the
knock worse when accelerating from a standing start?

I replaced the ujoints in mine and the half-axles came out easily.  Try
tapping the joint lightly with a hammer.  I don't remember this being a
compression joint.  You can also spray penetrating oil in the joint and
try again after it's set for awhile.  I had to turn the rubber boot
inside out to pull axle out through the trailing arm.

If you have the half-axles out I would replace the ujoints unless you
know they've recently been replaced.

 
Bruce Harding
Intel Corp.
Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com

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