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Re: I need so much help..

To: <KYNDUVME1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: I need so much help..
From: "alphachi" <alphachi@writeme.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 01:10:38 -0400
Hi Chris, well it sounds like you have your work cut out for you, welcome to
the club.  Speaking of which you can contact George about getting a
membership if you haven't already done this.  I think the back issues of the
BRICKLINE are available and invaluable.

Ok, here goes:  Any of this is based on my own experience, and I am far from
an expert, and there are many on this list wiser than I.  However, I am an
obsessive person, so when I do need to find something out or find a
resolution I am relentless.

Cleaning Wheels:  I've had good luck with Eagle A-1 wheel cleaner for rough
cast wheels.  Here's how:
1) cool the wheels off with cool water
2) Spray wheels with cleaner and using a brass brush, go to work.  Wear
safety goggles since this is an acid base cleaner.
3) Let rest for 2-3 minutes, then rinse well with lots of cool water
4) If satisfied go to next step, if not repeat 2 and 3
5) Using Dawn liquid with cool water(about 5 squirts in a gallon of water)
and a nylon brush give the wheels a light scrub(this will neutralize the
acid) Let rest for 2-3 minutes, then rinse rinse rinse.  If you fail to do
this step, some acid may stay active as it actually hides in the pores(cast
is porous)
6) After dry, you can spray some stuff like Final Inspection on the wheel
and wipe, this will make the next cleaning MUCH easier.  If you want, you
can paint with poly clear coat (about 5 thin coats)  to protect it even
more.

Vinyl Cleaning:  Man, I have used them all, there are two outstanding
products for vinyl.

Seats:  Marine 3M vinyl cleaner and restorer is gentle and effective(no,
it's not a laxative).  Perfect for the textured vinyl and the smooth trim.
Does NOT leave any gloss, has a sunscreen, and is a favorite of boaters.
Any good  marine store has it.

1) Vacuum with a light bristle brush(a natural shoe brush will do well) for
any loose debris.
2) Spray generous amount of cleaner and using a clean white terry towel
and the same brush *lightly* brush the surface.
3) Wipe with dry white terry, reapply, then wipe again with clean terry
until it stays white.
4) Finish with a light wipe with more terry until almost dry.
5) Let dry before use.

All Other Vinyl (dash, interior trim, door panels, etc.:

303 Protectant has been know for some time in marine circles as the best
around.  It dries a little shiny, but far outlasts any of the usual crap
like armorall.  It also has a great sunscreen.

1) Use above steps or mild soap solution and rinse to clean surface first
and let dry THOROUGHLY.

2) Apply 303 Protectant generously and let sit, preferably overnight.

3) Wipe down with clean terry  to remove any residue and reduce shine.

Reapply regularly, but no need to wait overnight after first application,
just spray and wipe dry.  It will also remove any surface crap once the base
of 303 has been applied.   Nothing, and I mean nothing will stick to the
surface for weeks and weeks after regular use.

Leather Steering wheel: Yep its real leather!

If it's faded, clean with alcohol than mask off metal and apply black shoe
dye carefully.  Do it lightly a couple of times then don't touch it for a
day or so, not even a little.  After a week, you can use Lexol leather
treatment (more sunscreen) but wipe thoroughly after applying or it will be
way too slippery.  I tested several brands of conditioner, and Lexol
resisted water the most, was least sticky, and very soft and smooth.
Occasionally, to clean the leather (salt and grime from hands) Lexol leather
cleaner can be used sparingly with a very lightly damp rag.  Dry off with
fresh terry, let dry overnight, then apply Lexol Leather treatment.


Carpet: review recent posts, Terry Tanner and Bob Hoffman both sell carpet
kits, but neither is really close to stock, which was actually pretty crappy
stuff.  I'm now trying to get closer with Salesco.  We'll see. However, I
suggest you take care of leaks and  seals before replacing the carpet.  Or
you'll just be chasing your tail.  Restoring a B can be expensive and time
consuming, so doing it right the first time makes it much easier all around
and much more enjoyable too.

Well, there's some food for thought.  Hope this helps and good luck,
congratulations
stephan #2821


----- Original Message -----
From: <KYNDUVME1@aol.com>
To: <Bricklin@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 6:26 PM
Subject: I need so much help..


> OK everyone....My Bricklin arrived today...it is in much worse shape than
I
> had thought originally....PLEASE excuse my ignorance....but, it is funny
> there is so much carpet discussion on the list lately......where can i get
> it??? The closest to the original??? I also need lots of little detail
> stuff.....the rings that go around the inside door buttons.... Basically
what
> happend is this....the "people"who were "fixing" the car left the door off
> for ...well, about 5 years...so, the inside is completely weathered.... I
> have to take the remaining carpet out...CLEAN EVERYHING, and replace the
> carpet..I want to keep the seats, so I am curious to hear the answer to
> someone elses seat cleaning question....If someone is in the LONG ISLAND
> area...PLEASE contact me....I am hoping someone could possibly come and
look
> at the car, and please give me some advice/direction...Thanks so much
> everyone...
> Chris
>


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