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Fw: What temp should I expect

To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Fw: What temp should I expect
From: Keith Johnson <keiths55@bigpond.net.au>
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 19:24:10 +1000
 Ok 100psi is a bit excessive, but you got the idea.
 I can't remember the high school stuff that converts head to pressure.
 Most of our "flatland" water towers are around 100ft.
 I destroyed  a heater by being careless with water pressure.

 I don't regard 100psi as a high pressure, being used to working with high
pressure superheated steam.
Now when that leaks out, you can't see it and it can slice through flesh
like a hot knife through butter.

 Keith
55 Californian
57 Rapier

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Ellis" <hunber@bellsouth.net>
> To: "Alpines@Autox. Team. Net" <alpines@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 4:46 AM
> Subject: RE: What temp should I expect
>
>
> > 100 PSI from a garden hose.... what you got there braided garden hose. I
> > have a hard time with that figure. While I can see if you had a blockage
> you
> > could go above the stock system rating which is a good point... but 100
> PSI
> > the garden hose would bust, heck if I put my finger over the end of the
> hose
> > it would cut me. I need you to school me on this one, how do you figure
> it?
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Johnson
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 8:02 PM
> > To: Jim Ellis; alpines@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: What temp should I expect
> >
> >
> > WARNING
> >
> > the pressure from the water mains will burst the heater core if the
outlet
> > is obstructed. Pressure can be over 100PSI. Work it out the normal
"head"
> is
> > over 100ft.
> >
> >
> > I take off top and bottom radiator hoses, temporarily remove the
> thermostat,
> > and just run water in the top hose. Use your hand to "seal" around the
> hose
> > to increase flow. Any blockages and your hand will move. A ducking is
less
> > aggravation than pulling down things to correct what the water pressure
> blew
> > out. This reverse flow often dislodges any loose stuff.
> > A competent radiator shop can do this reverse flushing for you.
> >
> > Keith
> > 55 Californian
> > 57 Rapier
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Ellis" <hunber@bellsouth.net>
> > To: "Alpines@Autox. Team. Net" <alpines@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 3:42 AM
> > Subject: RE: What temp should I expect
> >
> >
> > > I think Jan has it.. either a blown head gasket or a stopped up block
or
> > > even both. I had a water pump fail and it leaked but still pumped so
did
> > not
> > > over heat. The pump bearing was pretty loose and may have been close
to
> a
> > > very bad pump failure at the time but it did not over heat. There
could
> be
> > > other things causing your over heating besides a blown head gasket or
> > > casting sand in the block water passages but none of them would be
good,
> a
> > > cracked block comes to mind. You could try leaving the radiator cap
off
> > and
> > > start it up, watch the water in the radiator and see if it dances,
jumps
> > > around or pumps out with the engine running. This would be a sign of a
> > blown
> > > head gasket or a cracked block. Water spitting out the tail pipe is
> > another
> > > thing to look for, a white spark plug tip may show up also...maybe.
Then
> > you
> > > could get lucky and have a bad radiator cap, but if you replace it
stay
> > with
> > > a stock rated cap have heard of bad things happening to heater cores
> with
> > > higher than stock rated caps. You might also try flushing the block
with
> a
> > > garden hose, engine must be stone cold to do this. Get a hose fitting
> that
> > > will screw into the end of you hose and install it at one side of the
> > heater
> > > hose connection at the heater control valve, remove the bottom
radiator
> > hose
> > > turn the water on full blast, run it until it comes out clear, move
the
> > > fitting to the other hose that goes to the heater control valve and
> > repeat.
> > > You will be amazed at what flushes out of the block when you do this
and
> > it
> > > can take a good bit for the water to run clear. Hope it helps...  Jim
E
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of jumpinjan
> > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 10:09 PM
> > > To: Kurt Eckert
> > > Cc: Alpine folks
> > > Subject: Re: What temp should I expect
> > >
> > >
> > > Kurt Eckert wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have been having a problem with my 3GT overheating and attributed
it
> > to
> > > > the 40 year old radiator. Well I got my radiator back from being
> > re-cored
> > > > with a modern 3 core setup and I am still getting steam coming out
> from
> > > > under the hood after a few minutes of driving. What sort of temp
> should
> > I
> > > > expect?
> > >
> > > If you get steam after a few minutes of driving, then it's not the
> > > radiator. I have never seen any problems with the water pump
overheating
> > > the engine. I suspect some deeper problems like head gasket failure
> > > and/or sediment build up in the block. How long has it been since the
> > > last engine rebuild?
> > > Jan

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