I've been following this discussion with interest since I have the same rear
tube shock conversion. I was wondering what, under normal driving conditions,
would cause the lever shocks to hit the droop stops ?. Does the car pretty
much have to go airborne to achieve that or could it happen while driving
normally ?.
Aaron, I think you were the most recent with reports of a cracked frame. Do
you think the lack of a droop stop or poor adjustment preventing the bunp stop
from engaging before the shock bottoms out explains what you have seen or
would you still suggest some form of bracing after this one piece rear tube
conversion bracket is used ?
Stan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Robert M. Lang
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 4:32 PM
To: N197TR4@cs.com
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net; 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rear Shock Conversion Frame Problems Part 1
<snip>
2. if the shock is _bottoming_ before the suspension can hit the upper (or
lower) bump stops, then you are on to something. This could be the culprit
because if the suspension bottoms via the shock, then the shock becomes
the bump stop and you would be changing the load from pratically nothing
to hundreds of pounds instantaniously and this is "a bad thing". It would
make the car very hard to drive as the effect would be to increase the
spring rate to _infinite_. From experience, this usually translates to
instant "loose" handling. Very exciting.
The key here is that you need to pull the spring out and run the suspension
through the entire range from full droop to full compression.
If there is no visible bump rubber on the shock that "catches" the shock
before full droop, you're PULLING on the upper rear x-member and this will
highlight weaknesses in the welds, etc in the rear. If the shock "bottoms"
before full compression, then you should be able to adjust the upper bump
rubber on the trailing arm to get the situation "right".
</snip>
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