Randy---It's best to follow the mfg. directions, but either side should
"disconnect" the battery when switched.
I don't know how much time you've spent finding the leak, but will offer
some suggestions.
Remove either battery cable from the battery post. Connect a simple
"test light" between this
cable and its post. If the test light glows, as you suspect, a leak is
present.
The brightness of the test lightbulb is relevant to the size of the
leak. (Compare to the brightness when testing across the charged
battery)
Pull out the top fuse at the fuse box. If the test light goes out, the
leak is in the "Green" wire fuse line. Check all accssories on this
circuit, as shown in the Triumph Owners Repair Manual, for your year.
If the test lght is still glowing, move down to the next fuse.
Do the same test as above with remainng fuses. This is a process of
eliimination that reduces the probabilities of where the leak is.
Chances are good that a leak that takes "two weeks" to run down your
battery is a small one.
Possible suspects:
Trunk light switch.
Glove box switch.
High-tech radio memory?
Dick
From: Randy
sandner@worldnet.att.net(j randolph sandner) Date: Thu, May 12,
2005, 2:59pm (PDT+3) To: triumphs@autox.team.net (triumphs) Cc:
6pack@autox.team.net (6pack) Subject: 'leak
listers,
i have a battery 'leak'
if i do not drive the tr6 for 10-14 days i have a 'dead' battery. have
been to pep-boys, and auto zone. they offer a 'green' (the switch)
copper(?)' battery disconnect, and auto zone, a lead (Pb) disconnect
switch.
both appear to work off the negative side of the battery. the ? is:
does it matter if i disconnect the + or - side of the battery to avoid a
'leak'?
randy sandner
74.5 tr6
littleton co 80127
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