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Re: Click in rear wheel

To: Gary Fluke <res0s0t7@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Click in rear wheel
From: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 07:03:54 -0400
Mark,

Late for work -- got to run. I'm the original owner. It has 60K miles.
Dick Taylor said the hubs were good for 120K. I will check out your
suggestions, and read it again later. I can't send email from work.

Gary, 

I used to do that with baseball cards. My Mom saved all my kid stuff.
Later in life, my son looked through the old cards. I was sure I had
Mickey Mantel's. They were missing.... Hmmmm..... But sounded cool....
:-) 


Don  



Gary Fluke wrote:
> 
> Mark,
> 
> Did you or your buddies ever tie ballons to your bicycle frame so that they
> rubbed against the spokes?  It was really cool sounding if you could get
> several ballons to work for awhile at one time.
> 
> Gary
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Riddle" <dunamis6@juno.com>
> To: <dmallin@attglobal.net>; <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2003 8:04 PM
> Subject: Re: Click in rear wheel
> 
> > Don,
> > I'll just voice my opinion, for what it is worth.
> > If the hubs have not been redone that you know of, it might be false
> > economy to not have them done. As with anything on a 30 year old car,
> > wear happens!
> > That said, there are some conditionals to the above viewpoint. If I knew
> > the history of the car (like owned for many years), or knew that it had
> > been off the road for some time, or had a rebuild in the recent past,
> > then rebuild could be overlooked in favor of attention in other areas of
> > concern (u-joints, or ...).
> > The one "click" per rotation is a very good clue though. I had loose
> > bolts at the pinion flange, and there was more than just a click, but
> > they were very loose, and frequency was not one to one. If this is the
> > case it would indicate a problem located from the diff to the wheel, and
> > not on the pinion side of the driveline.
> > As you have observed, the bearings typically rumble or roar when they are
> > worn. The wear in the TR hub is somewhat easy to gauge. As stated in most
> > of the shop manuals, .002" endplay is the starting point, much more than
> > that and it is probably a good idea to have it worked on. I do not know
> > if there is a wear limit to that figure, it has not been something that I
> > needed to know as of yet.
> > I did reccently have one of my hubs redone (.010" endplay), and when I
> > received it back, It seemed to have more play in it than before it was
> > serviced. I checked the sideplay of the assembly with the wheel in place,
> > and it had about 1/16" sideplay, and I realized that maybe I was being
> > too critical of the clearance ( I work under a microscope to .0001" of an
> > inch).
> > TRF rebuilds them (mine took 8 weeks), and a place here in NC (I am
> > sorry, but the name escapes me...maybe someone else could help here).
> > The NC shop runs around $180, a reasonable figure (NFI), and TRF is
> > around $250/hub, and they put new studs and a u-joint on. There are
> > others I am sure, but I cannot recall them now.
> > I hope you can locate the source of the click,
> >
> > If not whip out a "duece" from the deck, add wire wheels and a
> > clothespin, drop the top, and roll. Maybe it wont be heard over the
> > "fun".
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Mark Riddle
> > '72 TR6

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