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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Dash\s*$/: 36 ]

Total 36 documents matching your query.

21. Re: Dash (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Fri, 11 Jul 97 12:01:22 PDT; ugly, I'm in the process of refinishing my dash, and spoke to a local woodworker mate (who has won some pretty impressive awards) about the dash. He took one lokk and said that the walnut veneer is E; /html/triumphs/1997-07/msg00587.html (7,403 bytes)
22. Re: Dash (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 11:22:59 -0400; It shouldn't be that tough to re-veneer it the dash, provided your woodworker buddy can provide you with a crucial tool. What you need is a router with a 3/16 or 1/4" straight cutter bit with a guid; /html/triumphs/1997-07/msg00602.html (7,996 bytes)
23. Re: Dash (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 13:29:15 -0400 (EDT); I did mine this past winter It takes a bit of time each day for a week, cutting and fitting is simple, rough up the dash , fill in voinds where the wood has dissappeared with some kind of putty abou; /html/triumphs/1997-07/msg00605.html (8,672 bytes)
24. Re:Dash (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 01:46:01 -0400 (EDT); I got a repalcement dash for my GT6+ from Vicki Brit and I have to agree with your assessment. They are darker and uglier. My original dash was water damaged and even though I tried to sand it down; /html/triumphs/1997-07/msg00615.html (7,481 bytes)
25. Dash (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 08:26:26 PST; I have had a home made dash in my TR6 since 1989. Made from a Home Depot mahogany plank. After living in Miami and Mobile I would say it passed the heat test! No warps, cracks, or splits. MRB; /html/triumphs/1997-02/msg00498.html (6,084 bytes)
26. dash (score: 1): Author: "jack williams" <jackandangie@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 11:42:20 -0600; I have received a maple dash for my '76 TR6. It is unfinished and I'd like to know what would be the best finish to apply. It's gorgeous and the work looks first rate, so I want to protect it well an; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01366.html (7,265 bytes)
27. Re: Dash (score: 1): Author: "jefflee@access-4-free.com" <jefflee@access-4-free.com>; Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 19:22:44 GMT; <What does the collective wisdom of the list recommend?> I would use a dark stain, wipe off quickly. (the longer it stays on, the darker it stains) Then seal it with polyurethane. Jeff Lee '63 TR4 CT; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01368.html (7,446 bytes)
28. RE: Dash (score: 1): Author: "Paige, Dean" <DPaige@ci.santa-rosa.ca.us>; Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 11:38:46 -0800; Why stain it at all? Just leave it natural. I would likely use marine grade varnish and put on at least three coats. Deano --Original Message-- From: owner-triumphs@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-trium; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01369.html (8,309 bytes)
29. Re: Dash (score: 1): Author: "Allen Brenden" <allen.brenden@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 14:02:43 -0800 from [4.26.139.199] at Thu, 23 Dec 2004 16:02:58 -0600; Make sure you use a UV resistant overcoat. I didn't on my first dash and it's gone from black walnut to honey blond. Live and learn. Allen Brenden Lynnwood, WA USA '76 TR7 FHC (Daily Driver)sometimes; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01374.html (8,941 bytes)
30. Re: Dash (score: 1): Author: "Allen Brenden" <allen.brenden@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 18:06:25 -0800 from [4.26.139.199] at Thu, 23 Dec 2004 20:07:26 -0600; Most of the marine spar varnishes are UV resistant. Verathane also has a line of UV resistant finishes. Check the label for UV resistance. Allen Brenden Lynnwood, WA USA '76 TR7 FHC (Daily Driver)som; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01381.html (9,573 bytes)
31. re:dash (score: 1): Author: spamiam@comcast.net; Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2004 03:25:25 +0000; I did a dash a few years ago. I wanted a finish that was perfectly colorless, and completely waterproof and UV proof. In the urethane "varnishes" there is Spar Varnish which is quite water resistant; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01385.html (8,983 bytes)
32. Re: dash (score: 1): Author: "Terry Smith" <terryrs@adelphia.net>; Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 23:38:57 -0500 reply-type=original; -- Jack, there are lots of options, of course, depending on whether you want a shiny finish, a satin finish, or whatever. I myself, for fine wood like maple, prefer Tung Oil. You'll have to reapply; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01386.html (8,530 bytes)
33. RE: dash (score: 1): Author: "Scott Suhring" <suhringtr36@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2004 18:23:50 -0500; Just to second Terry's solution, I too used tung oil and have always been pleased with the finish and the last time a rubbed in a coat was 4 years ago. I can also say that I have never gotten water o; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01396.html (8,804 bytes)
34. RE: dash (score: 1): Author: Dave Fain <kc3565l@sprintmail.com>; Date: Sat, 25 Dec 2004 09:39:29 -0700 (GMT-07:00); I am going to use linseed oil next time around. I used Varathane the last time I did a dash. It looked great at first but is now cracked, probably from expansion and contraction from temperature extr; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01404.html (7,636 bytes)
35. RE: dash (score: 1): Author: "Triumph" <triumph@yankeespitfire.com>; Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2004 17:23:12 -0500; Hi Jack, Don't know if this is wisdom but I've had success using Minwax Spar Urethane. A few coats per the directions and it buffs up like glass using steel wool and then finished with 3M Perfect-it; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01408.html (8,283 bytes)
36. Dash (score: 1): Author: Neil Beasley <74741.2020@compuserve.com>; Date: 20 Oct 95 17:57:23 EDT; Hello all, I have a '76 TR 6 with a wooden dash(guess this is standard). Anyway, the glove compartment door is surface cracked and the wood looks like veneer. Is this dash all veneer including the do; /html/triumphs/1995-10/msg00309.html (6,308 bytes)

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