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261. RE: TR4 valve guides (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 13:50:08 -0700; Hard to be certain without having the engine apart. The 'official' change point was at engine CT21471E, but the heads are otherwise interchangeable, so the factory or any subsequent mechanic may hav; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00520.html (7,417 bytes)
262. RE: TR2/3 installation of rear seal (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 16:12:17 -0700; Not really. You remove and reinstall the rear main cap with the seal half firmly attached, which is a fairly major piece of kit. The dimensions shown in the book are supposedly wrong and result in t; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00524.html (8,355 bytes)
263. RE: TR3A cooling again (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 19:18:36 -0700; Wow, that means all the solder melted out of your electrical connections ! Not to mention your gas tank exploding ! (Hint : leave out the degree symbol next time. It gets changed by the list server.; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00532.html (10,636 bytes)
264. RE: TR3A cooling again (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 22:06:42 -0700; That is an excellent point, and one I had forgotten about. What Teri is referring to is that the reproduction TR3A grilles have smaller openings than the factory ones did. With care, it's possible t; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00538.html (8,198 bytes)
265. RE: Randall's misfortune (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 08:55:31 -0700; I am speechless ! Thank you ! While I greatly appreciate all the support and offers of help, I haven't (yet) given up the fantasy of having TS39781LO repaired. Even if that means replacing all of th; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00557.html (8,142 bytes)
266. RE: Leaking heater valve TR6 (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 16:38:47 -0700; Jim, I don't have much experience with TR6 heads, but on TR3 heads I generally make it a practice to chase those threads with the appropriate pipe tap. Your local tool supply house should have the t; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00576.html (9,034 bytes)
267. RE: Temperature Sending Unit (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 16:41:56 -0700; Which car are we talking about, Terry ? On the TR2-3, that is not a wire at all, but is actually tubing with a very small internal diameter. The working fluid will have evaporated, putting replaceme; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00577.html (8,159 bytes)
268. RE: Leaking heater valve TR6 (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 09:44:37 -0700; In this particular case, that's exactly the idea. Since these threads are tapered, the fitting just screws in a little deeper and the threads still seal against the freshly cut surface. For the more; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00586.html (8,092 bytes)
269. RE: TR2/4A Rear Crank Seal by Hardy (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 16:05:49 -0700; Thanks, Hardy. I'll do my best to regurgitate the whole thing next time, instead of just the essential part. ;) Randall Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00591.html (6,953 bytes)
270. RE: tr3-a front beehive wires (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 21:55:11 -0700; TRF should have them, P/N BW51/PP, 2 reqd. Price sure has gone up though, they were only $15 in 2001, but they're $25 now. Randall Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/the-local; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00600.html (7,300 bytes)
271. RE: Front end Rebuilt - Now shimmy (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 09:30:34 -0700; How did you have the wheels balanced after the new tires were installed ? I had a somewhat similar problem with my motorhome that was solved by bubble-balancing (instead of spin-balancing) the front; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00604.html (8,124 bytes)
272. RE: Cam end float (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 09:57:00 -0700; I think you're missing a zero, my book says .003" to .0075", a range of only 4.5 thousandths. If the camshaft wanders back & forth any appreciable distance, it will affect the ignition timing. If yo; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00605.html (8,517 bytes)
273. RE: Why not drive these cars? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 20:19:03 -0700; I probably drive my Triumphs more than most, but I still rarely get over 10k/year. Big reason for me is that it's not a "family car" ... can't comfortably carry 3 people. Also I find that, as I get; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00617.html (8,359 bytes)
274. RE: TR6 gearbox to engine re-assembly (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 20:26:10 -0700; The alignment pins are a much tighter fit in their holes than the bolts are. Doesn't take much misalignment to make the pilot bearing drag, nor much drag to wear out synchros faster and make it hard; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00618.html (8,121 bytes)
275. RE: 1960 TR3A caliper rebuild (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 20:30:06 -0700; Terry, I think there is something wrong with your kit, perhaps it's made to fit multiple calipers or something. Each TR3 caliper has only two circular seals, which fit into the grooves in the calipe; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00619.html (7,393 bytes)
276. RE: TR3 Horns (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 20:38:00 -0700; Yes, to some extent. Remove the cover, then disassemble the contacts (paying close attention to how they are assembled), and remove the push rod that comes up out of the center and pushes the contac; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00620.html (8,333 bytes)
277. RE: TR3 & TR4 SUs (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 20:48:54 -0700; No such thing as a 66 TR4, the last TR4 was made in 1965. And did not use SU carbs. Randall Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forumId=8; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00621.html (6,740 bytes)
278. RE: battery drain (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 22:34:26 -0700; Better, IMO, to hide it under the dash. That way, not only is the switch not visible, but if anyone watches you park or start the car, they likely won't notice you turning the switch. Even better th; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00623.html (7,970 bytes)
279. RE: TR3 rear spring (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 07:35:13 -0700; No. But the 'stud' is designed to be removable. It's actually a pin that goes through a tube in the frame, and the head is tapped for an extractor. Lots of them have "become one" over the years, but; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00629.html (8,244 bytes)
280. RE: TR3 Horns (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 07:50:19 -0700; Original TR3/A horns have a fairly large slotted screw in the center of the top (round) cover. If yours don't have the round cover & screw, then they are a different type of horn, possibly a later re; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00631.html (7,326 bytes)

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