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241. RE: SU Carb rebuild kits (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 07:09:20 -0700; Yes, the HS6 kit is almost completely different than the H6 kit. The Moss catalog has a good breakdown of both kits for comparison. However, I believe TR4s were originally fitted with either H6 or Z; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01171.html (7,005 bytes)
242. RE: Hardtop Rear Window (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 07:16:01 -0700; If it replaced the soft top bow mount, then it was not for the factory hardtop. I have a factory removable hardtop for TS39781LO, and the softtop bows can remain on the car while the hardtop is inst; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01172.html (8,300 bytes)
243. RE: TR3 rear seal kit (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 14:57:31 -0700; The last time I asked Ken about it, he thought they were different (Ken's were coming from Daryl Uprichard at Racetorations, no idea where Moss gets theirs). However, that was some time ago and the; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01180.html (7,043 bytes)
244. RE: 1960 TR3, again (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 08:02:20 -0700; Have you tried cracking a bleed valve at that point, to see if the fluid is under pressure in the rear cylinders ? IMO that is more likely than a spring problem. If opening a bleed valve releases th; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01198.html (8,177 bytes)
245. RE: 1960 TR3, again (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 22:45:31 -0700; I believe that would indicate that the posts supporting the shoes needed adjustment due to wear. However, those posts are only found on 10" brakes, which ended in mid-1959. So presumably that proble; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01207.html (7,672 bytes)
246. RE: Risky Business?? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 07:42:31 -0700; All engine work seems a bit scary to me, the penalty for mistakes seems high ... but if you do drop the washer, it's easy to drop the pan & find it. Not really anywhere for it to get lost, once the; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01210.html (7,265 bytes)
247. RE: TR3 rear end behaviour on bumpy roads (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 15:44:53 -0700; IMO, too many variables to say. The rear suspension is certainly simple enough, couldn't hurt to inspect it. How rusty are your springs ? IMO rust between the spring leaves (caused by inadequate mai; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01221.html (9,082 bytes)
248. RE: Risky Business?? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2004 09:07:33 -0700; Sure it is. Take the inspection cover off, drive around the block, and hit the brakes really hard. Problem resolved. <G> Randall Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/the-local/t; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01236.html (7,045 bytes)
249. RE: '62 TR4 (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 12:18:28 -0700; Personally, I'd remove the plugs and give each cylinder a healthy shot of PB Blaster (or your favorite penetrating oil), then leave it sit for awhile, maybe several days while you attend to other ma; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01246.html (8,406 bytes)
250. RE: TR4 Top (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 16:24:14 -0700; Even the hole punch isn't necessary. I prefer to use the X-Acto knife to cut away the excess material inside the hole just before crimping the prongs. However, I find my "water pump" pliers to be qu; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01251.html (8,047 bytes)
251. RE: TR4 transmission seals (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 10:01:45 -0800; It's not too bad, if you're talking about only the input and output shaft seals. The shifter shaft seals are a bit of a pain since you have to completely strip the shift housing to change them (and; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01262.html (7,832 bytes)
252. RE: TR4A Steering Rack & TR6 sighting (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 21:06:18 -0800; Return path for the horn button. If they're not available from the usual suspects (TRF's web site shows them in stock), then you could try Aircraft Spruce. http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/ I must not; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01267.html (7,436 bytes)
253. RE: WIPAC headlights? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 07:56:00 -0700; FWIW, I agree with Mike about the reflectors. However in my opinions, the roads around Mt Wilson have too many twists and turns to need high power headlights anyway. You can't see around the mountai; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00458.html (7,895 bytes)
254. RE: Brakes, first things first (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 15:03:43 -0700; The TR3 has only a single MC, so if the front brakes work, the MC is OK. IMO the most likely cause is that the pistons in the rear wheel cylinders have corroded to the cylinders. This is a fairly co; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00475.html (8,371 bytes)
255. RE: Brakes, first things first (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 15:12:47 -0700; I will emphatically second that. I lost my previous TR3A because the steel line under the car had rotted through while it was in storage. Of course my not fixing the handbrake, nor checking the serv; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00478.html (7,821 bytes)
256. RE: Operating shaft for Throwout bearing (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 15:23:36 -0700; Kai, you know as well as I do what's going on ... TRF has had a huge batch of clutch shafts made up for them and now they have to either sell them, or scrap them. This is the same thing going on wit; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00479.html (7,819 bytes)
257. RE: TR6 head stud nuts TRF & Moss rant (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 18:11:59 -0700; Did you run a thread gage through them all, to be sure they were manufactured to the same tolerances ? Having the same manufacturer's marks really doesn't tell you anything except who made them. I'v; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00488.html (8,499 bytes)
258. RE: first things first (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 18:28:38 -0700; Hard to say for sure, but it's pretty bad. Going home on the 91 freeway Monday evening : traffic stopped, I stopped, the guy behind me didn't stop. At least not until his bumper was about where I ha; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00489.html (8,989 bytes)
259. RE: first things first (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 23:31:26 -0700; Don't tell anyone, but I really don't like the later TRs as well. If I get another TR, it will definitely be a TR3/A with front disc brakes. I actually already have one, a late TR3 with discs, that'; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00496.html (9,251 bytes)
260. RE: TR4 oil sump capacity increase (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 09:38:13 -0700; I'll not only second that, but point out that lowering the pan means it will hang down below the frame. If you find a "high center" to drive over, instead of harmlessly dragging the frame, it's like; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00509.html (8,509 bytes)

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