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221. RE: Idle musings about TRactor flywheels & ring gears (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2004 06:54:59 -0700
Has to be well over 212F to make water sizzle and dance ... as I recall this is more like 350-450. Tough to heat the entire ring evenly with a spot source like a propane torch, and as the book warns
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01005.html (8,710 bytes)

222. RE: more than just a dist. cap difference? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2004 21:23:10 -0700
I think so, in fact I think the cap on your TR4 motor is not from a TR4. Might even be from a Volvo ! But either cap should fit either dizzy. Yes, by TS71470E. I think the advance curves were origin
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01023.html (8,057 bytes)

223. RE: brake/clutch master cylinders (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 19:24:45 -0700
Doug, I don't know whence the straight exits, but I do know your TR3B should definitely have the angled exits. Randall Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_f
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01036.html (8,146 bytes)

224. RE: Wiring harness (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 09:24:37 -0700
Not really, since there are very few wires that are only for the dash. And unlike more modern cars, there is no master connector at the firewall, so most of the wires at the dash are one piece from
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01047.html (7,373 bytes)

225. RE: >>The earlier ring gear was pressed onto the flywheel (what an (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 10:52:17 -0700
Wonderfully put, as always Jonmac ! There can be no doubt as to why you worked in sales ... you must have been very good at it. The Eskimos should be grateful you weren't selling ice cubes <G> Randa
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01049.html (8,042 bytes)

226. RE: Disappearing Dash Pot Oil (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 06:48:39 -0700
How full are you filling them, and how far down does it leak ? The instructions in the early owner's manual have you slightly overfilling them, I believe this is so the excess will slowly run down t
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01067.html (8,497 bytes)

227. RE: Cheapo paint job (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 08:53:18 -0700
You might want to shop around at different shops, then. I only paid $2000 for the paint job on my TR3A, which included sanding it to bare metal (through multiple layers of paint and bondo), a good d
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01071.html (8,695 bytes)

228. RE: Cheapo paint job (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 13:07:01 -0700
If you do that Art, be sure to talk to Maaco about what primer to use first. (and whether they would be willing to take the job at all.) Not all modern paints are compatible with all modern primers.
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01080.html (8,798 bytes)

229. RE: RE: TR4A ? engine (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 14:41:34 -0700
While I'm also only guessing, I think that means this engine could not be original for a Sportsman. Note the closed crankcase breather on the rocker cover and HS6 carbs, these would be for a much la
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01083.html (9,612 bytes)

230. RE: Looking for John Esposito e-mail (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 06:53:42 -0700
Quantum Mechanics John Esposito 505 Wheeler Road Monroe, CT 06468 (203) 459-9612 (203) 261-8497 fax gerresposito@earthlink.net http://www.quantumechanics.com I like : Herman van den Akker 2100 Freem
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01114.html (7,424 bytes)

231. RE: Fitting liners, pistons (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 09:45:53 -0700
Yes, IMO. Only way it goes in. An alternative is to insert the pistons w/rods in the liners first, but I don't see any advantage. The hold downs are easy, and IMO you still need them while you're bo
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01116.html (8,068 bytes)

232. RE: Alternator conversion question - indicator light stays on (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 07:42:21 -0700 i9NEgLKB005501
In a word, yes. A failed diode, for example, can severely reduce the output capability of the alternator while still producing the correct voltage under light load. No, it takes many volts to light
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01127.html (7,666 bytes)

233. RE: Hard Starting/Stalling/ Wit's End (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 11:53:03 -0700
Not to mention the wire from the side of the dizzy to the points, and the ground lead from the point plate to ground. However, I'd be more suspicious of something shorting out the points, perhaps in
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01134.html (7,681 bytes)

234. RE: vacuum advance (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 17:27:44 -0700
Have you tried taking it to your local independant auto parts supply house, and asking if they can have it rebuilt ? Mine could ... Randall Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01142.html (7,105 bytes)

235. RE: Continuing ignition saga (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 17:37:18 -0700
If it only has one wire, then it's not a ballast resistor. I'm pretty sure the original ballast resistor was incorporated in the wiring harness on a 76 anyway. My guess is that it's a condensor to s
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01143.html (7,587 bytes)

236. RE: 1960 TR3 (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 10:52:25 -0700
Yes, that's right. Terry, I'm not sure I follow you here, but it sounds like your timing is too fast. 'Normal' timing for a TRactor motor is 4 degrees BTDC, which is only about 3/8" on the edge of t
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01147.html (9,506 bytes)

237. RE: 1960 TR3 (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 16:40:22 -0700
Good point. I don't have the late TR3A advance curve handy, but the TR2 advance curve would allow something like 4-6 degrees of advance at 950 rpm (475 distributor rpm). Still a lot less than 1.5-2"
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01149.html (8,172 bytes)

238. RE: 1960 TR3 (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 18:13:25 -0700
Nonsense ! Get a copy of the "SU tool kit", sold by Moss et all (for an outrageous price, considering what's in it, but they generally go for even more on eBay). Follow the instructions in it. There
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01155.html (8,289 bytes)

239. RE: Hardtop Rear Window (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 18:20:43 -0700
It's not flat by a long shot, and the thickness is important. Anything as thick as safety glass will not fit in the groove in the mounting rubber. There are lots of hardware pieces, but generally pe
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01156.html (8,241 bytes)

240. RE: parts (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 23:26:20 -0700
Yes, but will they fit my '08 Hupmobile ? Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forumId=8
/html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01164.html (7,040 bytes)

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