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1. Re: SuperTrapp on TR6 (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 15:09:59 -0800 (PST); Sure, it's been done. I can't remember the name of the guy who had twin small SuperTrapps on his 6 at the National in ... Seattle? Someone will help me out. You could use the "concealed" model and tu; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg00817.html (6,947 bytes)
2. Re: Flyoff handbrake (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2004 19:15:00 -0800 (PST); Well, sure. It certainly saved me when I was driving Diner across the US without any other brakes. (OK, halfway across the US.); /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg00912.html (7,597 bytes)
3. Re: Fly-off Handbrake (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2004 12:08:11 -0800 (PST); A well-timed grab of the brake to lock up the rears is a time-tested technique, still used today at the highest levels of rallye competition. Those fancy WRC cars with all wheel drive have their brak; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg00945.html (8,898 bytes)
4. Re: Request for recommendations (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 16:48:37 -0800 (PST); They're never cheap. You might be able to find a used one relatively cheap if you keep looking. Installation is the hard part of the problem - please use steel backing plates that are as thick as th; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01150.html (7,947 bytes)
5. Re: horns (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 12:33:43 -0800 (PST); You don't say what car you have. The trick with air horns is that they are very power hungry - even if you have a relay in the horn circuit already, you probably need to add a new circuit to drive th; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01438.html (7,033 bytes)
6. RE: TR3 Driving Lamp wiring question (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 16:49:58 -0800 (PST); At the risk of repeating myself (and tooting my own horn, as it were) take a look at http://www.dimebank.com/tech/WiringDrivingLights.html for a more-or-less step-by-step approach to adding aux light; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01519.html (7,301 bytes)
7. Re: u-joints (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 16:58:39 -0800 (PST); The various driveshaft bolts were listed by Triumph as special numbers, not standard hardware (p/n 132023 for driveshaft, 144961 for propshaft). There is no dimensional difference between these bolts; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01520.html (8,390 bytes)
8. Re: clutch (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 20:07:39 -0800 (PST); Wear at the clevis is a serious problem - both the holes in the clevis and the pin itself wear badly. Even when the parts are completely new, the range of motion is less than one would like. I have o; /html/triumphs/2004-11/msg00727.html (7,200 bytes)
9. Re: switches, air valves, speedometers ... (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2004 18:02:23 -0800 (PST); I commend to all of you looking for vendors and sources: The Monster List, maintained for a decade by yours truly for your searching and surfing pleasure. Want to know where to buy something? Look th; /html/triumphs/2004-11/msg00759.html (6,892 bytes)
10. Re: clevis forks (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 11:52:02 -0800 (PST); Yes, I know. That was my point - you can get separate, adjustable parts that fit the masters. From TriumphTune aka Moss Europe, if not elsewhere. It's entirely possible that the parts from the slave; /html/triumphs/2004-11/msg00871.html (8,446 bytes)
11. Re: clevis forks (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 20:33:47 -0800 (PST); It took some digging, but I found it. In 1995 I ordered 4ea 057194K from Moss Europe/TriumphTune. 057194 is the adjustable fork used on the clutch slave of TR2 through 4A - the "K" designates that th; /html/triumphs/2004-11/msg00906.html (7,780 bytes)
12. Re: Re: TR4A headlight switch "flash to pass" (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2004 19:46:56 -0800 (PST); My (built in) '66 does this - pull back and the high beams come on, no matter what. There's no stock relay, but I have a vague memory of having to connect a wire under the dash to make this work - I; /html/triumphs/2004-11/msg00971.html (8,923 bytes)
13. Re: Re: TR4A headlight switch "flash to pass" (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2004 08:04:45 -0800 (PST); Funny, since it just took hooking an extra wire to the switch to make it work (a brown, as I recall) :-); /html/triumphs/2004-11/msg01006.html (8,763 bytes)
14. Oil Pinion Seal (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 11:40:57 -0700 (PDT); Don't know about the access difficulties specific to a '73; I've done this in the car in a TR4A, which is essentially the same diff. Dropping the diff is, in general, easy, and will make your life ea; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg00732.html (8,162 bytes)
15. Re: Oil Pinion Seal (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 14:58:34 -0700 (PDT); Yeah, it's pretty easy to remove the driveshaft from below. But you can also (I seem to recall) get at those front bolts from above, if your tranny tunnel has the original large hole meant to provide; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg00742.html (8,579 bytes)
16. RE: TR4: recommended o/d tranny rebuilder? (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 12:51:16 -0700 (PDT); There are a number of war stories and other comments about o/d rebuilders in the Monster List (www.dimebank.com/monster). I'll add this one. chris Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.tea; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg00876.html (7,458 bytes)
17. RE: TR3 Turn Signals (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 12:44:40 -0700 (PDT); It *may* be the case that you have a burned out bulb. Some flashers use this behaviour to indicate that. Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forum; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00660.html (7,566 bytes)
18. Re: Tonneau snaps for TR4A door (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 20:41:21 -0700 (PDT); Rivets were original. And if I were you, I would use either aluminum or stainless, and make sure you get the center piece out, or you'll have rust problems. Check out the new British Cars Forum: http; /html/triumphs/2004-08/msg01115.html (8,173 bytes)
19. Re: TR6 Driveshaft Bolt - Grade Needed (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 20:45:08 -0700 (PDT); You can get original-equivalent bolts from TRF. I prefer to use AN bolts, along with the high-temp nylocs. These are particularly useful where the exhaust passes near the half-shafts at the rear. I b; /html/triumphs/2004-08/msg01116.html (8,558 bytes)
20. Re: RE: I did it (trailer/transport vs drive) kinda long (score: 1): Author: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>; Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 19:12:23 -0700 (PDT); What? You guys had brakes? That's cheating. I once drove a certain TR3A halfway across the country with only the hand brake working. This after many very busy days and nights trying to get it roused; /html/triumphs/2004-08/msg01261.html (7,887 bytes)

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