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121. [TR] Head Off (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 22:55:49 -0700; I don't believe they are available for the low port head. My suggestions: Remove the studs & pins, then lightly rub a fine machinist's file (which has flat sides instead of tapered) over the surface; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00375.html (8,383 bytes)
122. [TR] TR4A valve springs (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 13:12:51 -0700; According to the TR4 SPC, 511695 was fitted to TR4 after CT21740E http://tinyurl.com/6hmz9cg My 4A SPC (which I don't have up yet) lists the same part number. -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00382.html (8,551 bytes)
123. [TR] TR3A overdrive difficult to engage (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 18:06:10 -0700; Given that you can hear the solenoid operating, IMO the logical place to start would be with a pressure test. But if you don't happen to have the gauge and adapter handy, get one on order http://web; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00386.html (8,154 bytes)
124. [TR] TR-6 Cam (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 14:30:20 -0700; That appears to be correct for the early 'emissions' cam, which is the mildest of all the stock TR6 cams. I have no experience, but I would guess that you could go to an early PI cam or perhaps the; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00388.html (7,950 bytes)
125. [TR] TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes? (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 18:36:59 -0700; Now you've got my attention! Any idea how that compares to "Racing Green Metallic" on a 2008 Elise? Hmm, still looks kind of dark, but it's darn near impossible to compare colors on a computer monit; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00422.html (8,388 bytes)
126. [TR] Head gasket Q (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2011 10:30:57 -0700; I would be leery of a gasket from ebay. Even assuming it really is what the seller claims it is, it's still old and oxidized. And I see things being sold all the time that are not what they are clai; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00431.html (7,919 bytes)
127. [TR] TR4A - Starter Solenoid Wiring (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 08:02:21 -0700; That's right. I'm pretty sure it's the other way around. "S" gets the control from the switch (or in your case, the relay controlled by the switch); while "I" is used only on cars with external ball; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00247.html (8,153 bytes)
128. [TR] Oil light (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 07:57:36 -0700; Ditto. As noted, could be any of worn bearings, worn oil pump, or just a bad sender. After a similar experience years ago (on a non-LBC), I keep an aftermarket mechanical gauge just to double-check; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00264.html (9,028 bytes)
129. [TR] I finally did it (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 13:46:08 -0700; Or eBay. Don't forget that the TR4 gauge requires a voltage stabilizer as well. Personally, I think I'm going back to the capillary tube style, at least for now. I just don't trust the electrical ga; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00272.html (9,261 bytes)
130. [TR] I finally did it (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 22:03:17 -0700; Don't think it was George, but someone posted on another BBS that they had done it successfully. Then a year or two later, they mentioned that the repaired gauge had quit working, apparently it had; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00279.html (9,203 bytes)
131. [TR] Steps in doing a tune up (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 12:48:32 -0700; That is true. But I question the value of doing a compression check before a tune-up anyway, when working on your own car for the street. It's different when you are getting paid for your work, and; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00284.html (8,565 bytes)
132. [TR] fluid check (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 14:34:53 -0700; Worked fine for me. You probably won't get 100% of the benefit of silicone that way, since some small amount of glycol will remain in the system, but I drove that (non-LBC) some 170,000 miles and ne; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00314.html (8,157 bytes)
133. [TR] Any good TR machine shops in San Diego Area? (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 21:49:45 -0700; ... Sounds to me like you should be doing rings & bearings as well. A valve job isn't going to help the oil leakage. -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00316.html (7,944 bytes)
134. [TR] Peening Lift-A-Dot Studs (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 14:47:43 -0700; Huh? Are you talking about the "lift the dot" studs for the convertible top &/or tonneau cover? Why do you want to peen them? -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00322.html (7,363 bytes)
135. [TR] Purely Subjective Question re. TR3A Valve Settings (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 09:42:30 -0700; IMO, you're not likely to notice the difference, except for maybe a bit more valve noise. As someone already mentioned, you might wind up a few thousandths too loose, which will have little or no ef; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00341.html (9,058 bytes)
136. [TR] Testing (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 09:49:50 -0700; Looks good from here. In fact, it's working so well that there is already a message archived from next August ! <G> http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/triumphs/2011-08 PS, Thanks for all your h; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00349.html (7,715 bytes)
137. [TR] A Type Overdrive (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 13:06:09 -0700; The lever should have a 3/16" hole in it. There is a matching hole in the case such that when the holes are lined up (so you can slide the shank of a 3/16" drill bit through both holes), the valve s; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00352.html (9,123 bytes)
138. [TR] Headlight/Control Head questions - TR3A (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 14:41:22 -0700; Sounds like you aren't getting the tab at the bottom pushed into it's clip. On my 3A, I found that I had to use a thin piece of metal to slide between the rim and headlight, to push directly on the; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00353.html (9,187 bytes)
139. [TR] Where does it go? (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 18:24:08 -0700; I'm missing something, Carl. What is wrong with the original location, on the little shelf behind the horn mounts ? FWIW, I've not had real good luck with those original ground clips. Instead I use a; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00358.html (7,629 bytes)
140. [TR] [Fot] GT6 Alternator (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 21:12:44 -0700; It means except a "Mk I" GT6 (except of course it wasn't called "Mk I", just "GT6"). And that is because the early ones had a generator instead of an alternator. If you look earlier in the book, I th; /html/triumphs/2011-05/msg00362.html (7,141 bytes)

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