It has been some time, but I recall the same issues. My recollection was that I elongated the holes in the crossmember (equally) to get it to bolt in. Tom ____________________________________________
Most past replies had been to put a block of wood and a jack under the oil pan and lift the engine slightly. M In a message dated 7/11/2010 8:58:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, atwittsend@verizon.net
Author: "Would U. Believe" <mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:29:55 -0400
I tried lifting the car from under the crossmember, hoping the weight of the engine would cause the frame rails to spread apart a bit, but I did not try to lift from under the oil pan. Because the cr
Maybe something like this would work. I have it installed in the trunk of my Tiger to cut down on cowl shake. Don't ask me where I got it- my Dad gave it to me. Someone that specializes in truck acce
I used a hydraulic "jaws of life" kit that my good friend bought from Harbor A bottle jack and a 4x4 cut to the correct length might work as well. _______________________________________________ Tige
Good idea IMO. I used a hydraulic "jaws of life" kit that my good friend bought from Harbor Freight. A bottle jack and a 4x4 cut to the correct length might work as well. not to between can various h
A porta power may help, and probably be rented,borrowed, or purchased from numerous tool companies. Northern tool, harbor freight, eastwood, speedway, local tool shops. http://www.harborfreight.com/4
If the crossmember and chassis are that different then it would seem to be prudent to measure both sets of holes, compare against the frame measurement chart that's in the Tiger shop manual, and figu
Theo, A good point, as we all know the front cross members are prone to cracks, sagging etc, when bolted to the car they will stay connected, once removed if its no longer in true then it will be har
I wonder if it's possible that using bad engine mounts could be pulling the frame in? By any chance have you tried loosening the mounts? Mark In a message dated 7/12/2010 8:45:37 P.M. Eastern Dayligh
This happened to me when I dropped my cross member. As I noted, I jacked the LAT oil pan up just enough to take up the engine weight. Its the engine weight that is causing problems. Once unweighted,
That's what I would do... Loosen all the mounts and 'hang' the motor... Then get the damn cross member bolted in . The motor mounts are a lot more forgiving ! Don't forget to put 'safety' bolts in th
Please explain this to a new guy. My engine is out, so now would be the Tom Milton Lansing, IL. 1964 Tiger project B382000257 The other thing is when the front end is out its prudent to brace the sho
If your cross member is out of the car you need to take two sets of measurements: Between the towers and the bolt hole spacing. The C.A.T. Shop Notes has the tower measurements; if you don't have a
Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length (the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE
I would suggest you put a slight point on the bolt to get by the bad threads; a thread file might work OK here too. As Theo states the threads for UNF are slightly different from SAE threads. If you
Roger that! Thanks. M Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length (the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread which is almost but not
Actually, the grip length is the amount of the bolt that is unthreaded, i.e., the shank of the bolt. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/