- 281. RE: All Gassed Up (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 08:17:37 -0700
- It's always been my understanding that the basic energy content of pump gasoline is pretty close to the same through the normal octane range. Higher octane numbers indicate a higher flash point, whic
- /html/tigers/2003-12/msg00039.html (7,769 bytes)
- 282. RE: Tach Question (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 09:30:04 -0700
- The dual points should give an overlapping signal to the coil, i.e. the trailing points close before the leading points open, so it will look to the coil like you've just energized it for a longer pe
- /html/tigers/2003-12/msg00043.html (7,995 bytes)
- 283. RE: Possible disaster??? (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 08:38:34 -0700
- You can remove a single valve spring and seal by putting a compressed-air fitting in place of the spark plug, using compressed air to hold the valves up, and then using a lever type valve-spring comp
- /html/tigers/2003-12/msg00075.html (8,165 bytes)
- 284. RE: Torque versus horsepower Update (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 08:37:50 -0700
- Not to flog a dead horse (any more than has already been done), but from a high-school-physics level point of view you can approach it like this: A vehicle moving at some given speed has some kinetic
- /html/tigers/2003-11/msg00019.html (7,744 bytes)
- 285. RE: RPM vs Torque - a Fairy Tale (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 13:23:07 -0700
- How about ".... from having a flat horsepower curve through a wide RPM band?". Because when people argue torque vs. horsepower, THAT's what they're really arguing about: a broad (but possibly lower p
- /html/tigers/2003-11/msg00025.html (8,239 bytes)
- 286. RE: Still have oil/water problems (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 09:39:12 -0700
- I'm no expert at aluminum welding, but based on what I've experimented with I'd weld or braze the cover only as a last resort. You might look at using a metal-filled epoxy to fill up the hole. Just m
- /html/tigers/2003-11/msg00055.html (8,048 bytes)
- 287. RE: looking for AAMCO (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 15:07:30 -0700
- www.addco.net was the place Paul was looking for. The list's copy of my reply to him got eaten by the List's new your-reply-is-no-good filter. Theo
- /html/tigers/2003-11/msg00059.html (6,602 bytes)
- 288. RE: List Posting Etiquette (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 13:07:53 -0700
- I first noticed the postscript on the list postings a couple of months ago, I think. Mark could probably give you a more exact date, but as I recall some of the other team.net lists (specifically, th
- /html/tigers/2003-11/msg00067.html (6,605 bytes)
- 289. RE: Damn Brake Light Switch (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 15:19:01 -0700
- Any brake light switch that is operated off the pedal, has to be mounted such that the switch button or lever is depressed while your foot is off the pedal, and then the switch is released when you p
- /html/tigers/2003-11/msg00072.html (8,568 bytes)
- 290. RE: Damn Brake Light Switch (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 16:00:11 -0700
- It's up to you what kind of switch you use, but I'd be inclined to use a brake pedal switch from another car, because that would have the right kind of adjustable mounting, and the proper current ha
- /html/tigers/2003-11/msg00075.html (7,864 bytes)
- 291. RE: car cover (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 16:55:03 -0700
- You could get the one that Rick at Sunbeam Specialties carries. I'm not sure if it's the same one that I have (judging by the photos, it's pretty close), but they fit like a glove. I haven't seen any
- /html/tigers/2003-11/msg00092.html (6,610 bytes)
- 292. RE: Water Temp. Problem (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 08:31:19 -0700
- If the thermostat was stuck, then you'd still get hot air out of the heater, since heater circulation isn't dependent on the thermostat. It sounds more like a clogged bypass hose, as described by Bob
- /html/tigers/2003-11/msg00118.html (7,313 bytes)
- 293. RE: More Temp. (and smoke) Problem Details (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 13:28:47 -0700
- If it's dense white smoke coming out of the exhaust, and if you run anywhere near a 50/50 antifreeze mix, then you will be able to smell antifreeze in the exhaust, if that's what is causing the smoke
- /html/tigers/2003-11/msg00126.html (8,126 bytes)
- 294. water-in-the-oil question. (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 08:21:19 -0600
- Hi all, I pulled the F4B intake manifold off the engine last night (and I now have better appreciation for Lee Holman's comment on the 'bolts that God can't see'), and it looks like the parts of the
- /html/tigers/2003-10/msg00016.html (6,913 bytes)
- 295. RE: 4 bbl carb 500 cfm or 650? (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 10:31:41 -0700
- I've run both the Edelbrock 600 CFM and the Holley center-hung-float double pumper, with decent driveability (especially considering I never re-tuned the Holley after relocating the Tiger from Vancou
- /html/tigers/2003-10/msg00061.html (8,171 bytes)
- 296. Driver's side inlet water pump. (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 10:36:26 -0700
- Hi all, For various reasons, I'm interested in running a driver's side inlet water pump on the Tiger when I install the 5.0. I do want to still run a V-belt as opposed to the serpentine belt. Has any
- /html/tigers/2003-10/msg00062.html (6,883 bytes)
- 297. RE: Driver's side inlet water pump. (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 16:41:13 -0700
- Hi Ron, Thanks for the info. I think that out of the Ford catalog, the E351 pump looks like the closest fit to what I think I need. I don't think that you could just press on a standard rotation impe
- /html/tigers/2003-10/msg00069.html (7,718 bytes)
- 298. RE: Tiger Starting problem (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 08:56:40 -0600
- IIRC the telescoping gear, one-way clutch assembly, and solenoid to drive it, is usually called the 'Bendix', presumably after the guy that originally designed/patented it. On my OEM starter the Bend
- /html/tigers/2003-09/msg00009.html (6,793 bytes)
- 299. RE: Major annoyances over minor substances (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 09:51:30 -0600
- I've used this product for doing small spray jobs (race car fender repairs etc.), with automotive enamel, and it works well. Theo This sounds like something my son got at a hobby shop for painting hi
- /html/tigers/2003-09/msg00011.html (7,335 bytes)
- 300. RE: Tiger heater valve (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com>
- Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 08:14:48 -0600
- I used a 1981 Honda Civic valve, complete with the piece of control cable that goes through the firewall - except that the mounting location I picked (near the stock location on the Ware strut) proba
- /html/tigers/2003-09/msg00044.html (7,459 bytes)
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