Mail Archive Search: <+subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*post\-paint\s+buffing\s*$/>

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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*post\-paint\s+buffing\s*$/: 9 ]

Total 9 documents matching your query.

1. post-paint buffing (score: 1): Author: Dick Byrne <lindalnhvt@nhvt.net>; Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 22:05:16 -0400 (EDT); The paint is progressing. Second part will be Friday. It looks good, but due to makeshift location, I have "dust bits" in the paint, but when they're gone it will look great. I'm new to the painting; /html/spridgets/2006-09/msg00159.html (7,403 bytes)
2. Re: post-paint buffing (score: 1): Author: Frank Clarici <spritenut@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 22:18:26 -0400; Make sure you have enough paint on the car. It will most likely need to be wet sanded. 1200 or 1500 wet sandpaper to start with depending on how much dust. Follow with 2000 grit. Use a rubber squeeg; /html/spridgets/2006-09/msg00166.html (8,030 bytes)
3. Re: post-paint buffing (score: 1): Author: <trevorwj@insightbb.com>; Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2006 07:28:00 -0400; Always start the buffer when it is in contact with the car, this will reduce the chance of burn marks. Moving against the direction of the buffer rotation (at point of contact) cuts more than moving; /html/spridgets/2006-09/msg00170.html (9,017 bytes)
4. post-paint buffing (score: 1): Author: john.dagostino@comcast.net; Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2006 13:47:29 +0000; Frank pretty much summed it up on buffing. I'm no expert, but I would only add that when buffing, a slow buffing speed is better. I used to think any old buffer was ok, then I splurged and bought a; /html/spridgets/2006-09/msg00173.html (7,765 bytes)
5. RE: post-paint buffing (score: 1): Author: "Charles Christ" <cfchrist@earthlink.net>; Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 14:36:22 -0400; youse guys are soooo cruel! no one mentioned to take extreme care at the "T" beam seams on fender tops or areas like fender / trunk / hood & doors whereit's real easy to burn right through the paint; /html/spridgets/2006-09/msg00181.html (8,670 bytes)
6. RE: post-paint buffing (score: 1): Author: "Charles Christ" <cfchrist@earthlink.net>; Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 15:29:32 -0400; my first experience buffing was with a one speed electric (borrowed!) buffer. it should have been made into a movie! "when buffers go bad!" was buffing the roof of my 56 chevy , had a blanket on the; /html/spridgets/2006-09/msg00182.html (8,442 bytes)
7. RE: post-paint buffing (score: 1): Author: john.dagostino@comcast.net; Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2006 20:08:42 +0000; See, why shouldn't everyone have that kind of fun. My first buffer was a $40.00 B&D special with two speeds, fast and faster, it would sling compound over anything within a 50 yard radius, of course; /html/spridgets/2006-09/msg00183.html (7,497 bytes)
8. Re: post-paint buffing (score: 1): Author: Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2006 21:50:59 -0400; Don't forget to keep the cord up over a shoulder or some other way of keeping it out of the way of the spinning wheel. You don't have to ask how I know, just picture the result. Dave; /html/spridgets/2006-09/msg00193.html (7,849 bytes)
9. Re: post-paint buffing (score: 1): Author: KrkLH@cs.com; Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 23:05:36 EDT; When I first started buffing there was so much compound slinging off the buffer that there is now a line about 3 and half feet tall running the parameter of my garage! Kirk; /html/spridgets/2006-09/msg00195.html (7,100 bytes)

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