It survived 40 years of neglect, and now you want to switch brands ? I got tired of never having enough air, so I picked up a used 80 gallon "7.5 hp" Craftsman (made by Ingersoll-Rand) from Craigsli
Yes. The other problem is that the water inside is well above the boiling point and so flashes instantly into steam when the pressure drops. Low water was primarily a problem when part of the heat e
Of course, an important question is how high the pressure actually was when they exploded. Races were not uncommon, and the pressure relief valve was easily modified to allow extra pressure. It was
So you used Loctite PST ? So, get a die without a chipped tooth, and rethread the pipe for the leaking joints. A tap to chase the fittings will help, too. FWIW, my compressor leak turned out to be a
I did both to some extent; because I figured the odds were good that I would either want to modify it later, or it would develop leaks in service. The unions also make it easier to poke through wall
It is a 'normal' compressor, more or less, except more stages rather than the usual one or two. ISTR the ones I've seen on seismic survey ships run 5 or 6 stages. Google for "paint ball compressor" a
Never heard of it used that way, but it seems to me that sodium silicate (water glass) would be closer to what you want than Slime. Cap off all the outlets (don't want it in your quick connects or re
So what type of remotely operated valve would be appropriate? I don't know much about solenoid valves, but it appears that the inexpensive "piloted" valves always have a pressure drop across the val
Call me lazy if you like. The shop is at one end of the house, the compressor is out in the back yard at the other end. Only 50 feet if I had an outside door, but instead it's more like 200 after wa
If you can temporarily get air without the plumbing system, HF sells a cheap venturi vacuum pump that works pretty well. IMO it doesn't pull down far enough for A/C work, but it will do for vacuum f
Can you amplify on that a bit, Moose? I haven't bothered to hook mine up yet (and I will definitely be upgrading the plastic line), but I don't see why it wouldn't work for basically any compressor
I think it misses another case, perhaps more important, which is where the tank is hot while the compressor is working and then cools at the end of the work day. Water will condense inside the tank
I could be mistaken, but I assume that is only because the tee they give you is designed for use with poly or nylon. Or maybe they are worried about temperature (which is why I plan to use copper in
My opinion, I'd flush it anyway, if the valve will move easily. Went through something similar with my last house, and flushing didn't seem to hurt anything. And it did seem to help the noise (althou
Looks like it would be extra hassle to seal those shafts to hold oil, and your usage sounds very modest, so I'd probably just use grease. Even ordinary grease gun grease should do fine. But don't for
I can't say one way or the other. But the "professionals" around here do lousy jobs. The building at work had an electric water heater mounted in the ceiling, with no drain provision for the TPR val
That's because they assign a different model number to each collection of options. They're all pretty much the same basic receiver inside, the options are things like display size, voice recognition