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201. RE: fire rated drywall? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 20:08:12 -0800
I haven't seen fire-rated any thinner than 1/2", and I think it's available in various thicknesses all the way up to 1". But 5/8" seems to be most common. Randall
/html/shop-talk/2004-11/msg00022.html (7,612 bytes)

202. RE: computing electrical loads (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 14:31:17 -0800
I don't know of a chart anywhere, but these are easy. Allow an amp. 7-8 amps if it's really putting out 3/4 hp. Electric motors draw a big start-up surge though, so I'd allow more like 10 amps to be
/html/shop-talk/2004-11/msg00027.html (8,192 bytes)

203. RE: computing electrical loads (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 15:29:25 -0800
We've had this discussion before ... it takes a lot more than 750 watts to make one horsepower. 1000 volt-amps is a much better approximation (and volt-amps is what we want anyway, since motors are
/html/shop-talk/2004-11/msg00033.html (7,555 bytes)

204. RE: Car wheel dollies (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 15:44:13 -0800
I am using them. I've learned that they are not all created equal, some of the cheaper ones have plastic wheels on them and I'm told they don't roll as well. I got mine from HF on sale, after checki
/html/shop-talk/2004-11/msg00035.html (8,151 bytes)

205. RE: computing electrical loads (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 16:53:57 -0800
Exactly. Motors are notoriously inefficient (the excess power gets converted into heat, which is why they always get hot); and small motors are almost always heavily inductive (which means the true
/html/shop-talk/2004-11/msg00038.html (7,776 bytes)

206. RE: Adjustable reamers (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 12:29:19 -0800
Yours must be better made than my Indian set then ... I wouldn't call mine suitable for use under any circumstances except dire need. Perhaps it's just because my machine tools aren't rigid enough t
/html/shop-talk/2004-11/msg00062.html (7,326 bytes)

207. RE: Adjustable reamers (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 17:46:39 -0800
And I was agreeing with what you weren't saying ! Like many cheap tools, one could probably make a decent set of reamers out of the parts found in the kit. But perhaps not, since the blades I got ar
/html/shop-talk/2004-11/msg00065.html (7,498 bytes)

208. RE: A question about Hypoid gear oil..... (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2004 07:26:21 -0800
I would definitely at least drain and refill. Run it long enough to get hot & check the oil's appearance again. If it still looks funky, drain & refill again. I don't know enough about what's inside
/html/shop-talk/2004-11/msg00067.html (7,434 bytes)

209. RE: Will oil really "wick up" a dipstick? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2004 10:13:13 -0700
I think a more relevant question is : How do you know for a gold-plated fact that the motor has not been turned over recently? Even a gust of wind could possibly slosh oil around enough to give a fa
/html/shop-talk/2004-10/msg00005.html (8,160 bytes)

210. RE: Lawn tractor madness (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2004 14:47:30 -0700
Mark, I'm too lazy to go look for it at the moment ... but have you tried checking out JD's web site ? I know they have lots of information on their larger tractors there. Randall
/html/shop-talk/2004-10/msg00015.html (6,635 bytes)

211. RE: New Idea for flooring (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 11:08:34 -0700
Might be, but as someone already said, you sure don't want to be welding over it. I'd be surprised if a wood chipper would do it ... although I've never tried a chipper I have tried other things tha
/html/shop-talk/2004-10/msg00037.html (8,523 bytes)

212. RE: Another hare brained idea (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 21:12:51 -0700
Sounds reasonable to me, depending on how much you use it. Or, you could probably convert an old DC stick welder into an adequate power supply. Since you won't be driving the fork lift, you won't ne
/html/shop-talk/2004-10/msg00046.html (7,898 bytes)

213. RE: Another hare brained idea (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 07:06:58 -0700
Sure you can, you just have to either rewire the batteries when you want to charge them, or charge them one at a time. 4 separate chargers (for 48 volts) is another possibility. Randall
/html/shop-talk/2004-10/msg00049.html (7,201 bytes)

214. RE: Pipe threading? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 21:23:53 -0700
Are you sure you can't chip out enough of the epoxy to get a tap into the original threads ? That's what I would try to do ... Yes, common pipe threads are tapered. However garden hose threads are n
/html/shop-talk/2004-10/msg00052.html (7,700 bytes)

215. RE: Pipe threading? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2004 10:31:13 -0700
Another possibly easier to obtain solution might be an ordinary PVC to male NPT adapter, with a rubber gasket and a nut to thread onto the threaded portion. I just used one of these to plumb the dra
/html/shop-talk/2004-10/msg00056.html (7,168 bytes)

216. RE: More on hot tub plumbing repair... (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 18:44:11 -0700
Yeah, chlorine eats copper pretty quick. The result stains the pool too, at least my plaster one. PVC stands up to it really well though, and I think my Home Depot carries PVC ball valves in the sma
/html/shop-talk/2004-10/msg00059.html (7,243 bytes)

217. RE: Shelf Fittings (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 06:17:41 -0700
IMO, glue is the only way to make anything strong out of MDF. Any kind of point fastener creates a point of weakness. Ordinary screws (with pilot holes) help with clamping. Even the cheap, knocked-d
/html/shop-talk/2004-10/msg00098.html (6,926 bytes)

218. RE: Oil removal from concrete?? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 10:55:27 -0700
I've heard that dry unset concrete (like you buy to make concrete from) works well, but haven't tried it myself, yet. Randall
/html/shop-talk/2004-10/msg00101.html (7,019 bytes)

219. RE: oil change (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 23:18:31 -0700
I've used both Kroil and PB Blaster. I'd say they're about the same, which is worlds better than Liquid Wrench, WD-40 or any concoction of diesel fuel & ATF. Haven't tried Sili-Kroil though, which I
/html/shop-talk/2004-10/msg00142.html (7,449 bytes)

220. RE: parts cleaners (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 12:31:33 -0700
Yup, not a good idea. There's even a warning on the gallon bottles of Simple Green, but apparently not on all of the smaller ones. It attacks aluminum fairly slowly, so just a quick wash might not h
/html/shop-talk/2004-10/msg00162.html (7,540 bytes)

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