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181. RE: car batteries. who do you trust? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 19:09:25 -0800; It's interesting that they found all those differences ... did they try to sort out who actually made each battery ? ISTR reading some time ago that there were only two auto battery makers left in NA; /html/shop-talk/2005-01/msg00193.html (8,139 bytes)
182. RE: car batteries. who do you trust? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 09:01:43 -0800; I've never liked CU much, the things they test for are generally not the things I'm interested in. But after the fiasco over the Isuzu Trooper, I don't trust a word that CU says. In spite of their c; /html/shop-talk/2005-01/msg00198.html (8,318 bytes)
183. RE: car batteries. who do you trust? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 09:29:07 -0800; I think that's very likely. Definitely possible. I'm no expert on battery construction, but I do know that one of the variables is simply how much dead space is left below the grids. Over time and u; /html/shop-talk/2005-01/msg00200.html (8,489 bytes)
184. RE: Consumer Reports (was : car batteries. who do you trust?) (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 16:56:21 -0800; I don't have the links to hand but I'm sure you can turn them up with Google. Basically, CU reviewed the Isuzu Trooper and rated it Unacceptable in spite of the fact it has no more propensity to rol; /html/shop-talk/2005-01/msg00210.html (8,773 bytes)
185. RE: Consumer Reports (was : car batteries. who do you trust?) (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 17:49:28 -0800; You're right, it won't. Remember CU won the right to lie in court. Their defense was not that their report was truthful, it was that they could say whatever they wanted. San Quentin is full of innoc; /html/shop-talk/2005-01/msg00213.html (7,767 bytes)
186. RE: Consumer Reports (was : car batteries. who do you trust?) (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 18:24:54 -0800; But that's exactly the point ! No one saw the Bronco story, but everyone read about the Trooper & Samurai. Bet no one saw the retraction of the Samurai story either ... <\rant> Randall; /html/shop-talk/2005-01/msg00215.html (7,552 bytes)
187. RE: Siping (on street tires)? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2004 13:36:16 -0800; I'm no expert, but it's my understanding that siping does not normally increase grip on dry pavement. Some quick searching on Google seems to confirm that. It supposedly increases traction in poor c; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00025.html (7,984 bytes)
188. RE: crazy idea that will work! (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 14:22:29 -0800; Seems to me that all you need is a regular globe or gate valve, with an extension on the handle long enough to extend through the wall (with suitable sealing). No need to go "far away", just 8 or 10; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00034.html (8,869 bytes)
189. RE: Ratcheting Box end wrenches and drill bits (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2004 13:46:07 -0800; I have both kinds ... what I dislike about the reversible ones is that they have a web across one side of the socket, so they can't be slid completely over a nut, or used with the offset "down" inst; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00062.html (7,896 bytes)
190. RE: Which Drill Doctor model and why? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 07:38:02 -0800; Might be worth mentioning that the 400 & 500 can also do up to 3/4" bits, with the optional larger chuck. It's tough to find this info on their website, but it's there. http://www.drilldoctor.com/st; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00088.html (7,270 bytes)
191. RE: Undercabinet lighting (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 17:24:01 -0800; I've no direct experience, Karl, but that statement worries me. "Xenon" bulbs are still incandescent halogen bulbs, and like all incandescent bulbs, nearly all the power input comes back out as heat; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00092.html (8,654 bytes)
192. RE: What a gift (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 22:01:56 -0800; Kinko's offers this service too. Not sure if they all do, but my local one has a self-service scanner so you don't even have to let the droid handle your precious originals. The results get put on a; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00115.html (6,920 bytes)
193. RE: relocating a water heater (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 12:07:39 -0800; I agree with Chris, but also consider that all water heaters eventually leak. That's why code in most places requires a catch basin or hard floor with drain under hot water heaters. Code will likely; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00129.html (7,339 bytes)
194. RE: Water Pumps (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 12:45:51 -0800; Depends on the pump, but 1/2 the volume is not uncommon. The pump maker should be able to supply this information. The 26 feet is only vertical, but there is also a penalty for flow resistance. The; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00130.html (7,202 bytes)
195. RE: cutting off a plug... (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 22:30:39 -0800; I suspect it depends on how paranoid you are about electrical fires. The wire in the 'rope' is apparently not heavy enough to always pop the 15A circuit breaker in case of a short, so the 5A is to b; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00133.html (8,119 bytes)
196. RE: cutting off a plug... (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 08:05:43 -0800; I suppose that would work, but the fuse would have to go inside a box of some sort and you'd still need to add insulation to the fuse leads. And the inspector will probably have a fit if he sees it.; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00139.html (7,274 bytes)
197. RE: Washing Machine Motors (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 08:20:10 -0800; IMO, more likely you've got bad bearings somewhere. Might be in the motor, but I'd guess they're in the transmission or whatever supports the drum. It's possible your motor is "tired", especially if; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00141.html (8,180 bytes)
198. RE: Washing Machine Motors (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 12:25:05 -0800; I guess that's one way to put it. All depends on what sort of motor it is ... every washing machine I've ever worked on (which isn't a great many) had an inductive start induction motor (which has n; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00149.html (8,620 bytes)
199. RE: Washing Machine Motors (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 14:23:33 -0800; It's possible, but I would think the contacts would rapidly overheat and fail completely with that much power being dissipated in them. The starting winding usually draws more current than the run w; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00150.html (8,183 bytes)
200. RE: welders MIG vs. TIG (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 11:03:24 -0800; I don't believe there is any inherent difference ... you can make strong welds with any method. However, I've heard it said that it's easy to make pretty looking, but poor penetration (weak) welds w; /html/shop-talk/2004-12/msg00178.html (9,119 bytes)

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