- 1. RE: Tankless whole-house water heater (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 11:45:06 -0800
- Whatever flow rate & rise they will supply, they will supply indefinitely. So you never "run out" of hot water like with a tank. But I just did a little calculation for my house. To support 140F wat
- /html/shop-talk/2006-03/msg00004.html (9,218 bytes)
- 2. RE: Tankless whole-house water heater (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 14:05:25 -0800
- True, but it accurately describes "worst case" in my own home. And it also describes a situation that my current hot water system can handle reasonably well, as long as the showers and faucet usage
- /html/shop-talk/2006-03/msg00010.html (10,806 bytes)
- 3. RE: Tankless whole-house water heater (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 14:17:45 -0800
- The tanks are available, but why ? You'd have to add a pump to circulate the water through the tank back into the heater, since otherwise it will get cold in the tank. And since you're still keeping
- /html/shop-talk/2006-03/msg00011.html (8,549 bytes)
- 4. RE: looking for suggestion on shipping (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 16:15:34 -0800
- If "terminal to terminal" is acceptable (ie your shipper will deliver to the terminal and you can pick up from a terminal), then check out Forward Air. http://www.forwardair.com/ They moved a pallet
- /html/shop-talk/2006-03/msg00036.html (7,773 bytes)
- 5. RE: displaying load on generator (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 16:05:10 -0800
- Easiest I would think is to install the equivalent of an Amprobe on each leg outside of the gen set (or at least outside of where it would void your warranty). Basically stick a toroid core around e
- /html/shop-talk/2006-03/msg00054.html (7,152 bytes)
- 6. RE: Phone/intercom strobe for shop (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2006 15:47:36 -0800
- That web page mentions a "call tone" you can send. My thought would be a modification inside the box, to detect the call tone and trigger your choice of displays when it happens. Much easier, IMO, t
- /html/shop-talk/2006-03/msg00061.html (7,731 bytes)
- 7. RE: Pressure Washer (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 14:26:56 -0800
- Tough question, but I have a 6.5 hp 3300 psi model and I wish it had more pressure. Note that flow is important too. BTW, a "rotating" nozzle will help simulate a larger unit. It moves the needle sp
- /html/shop-talk/2006-02/msg00031.html (7,889 bytes)
- 8. RE: Adding a bid circuit and and electrical breaker questions (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 17:20:35 -0800
- AFAIK, no. It's normal to have the branch circuits add up to more than the capacity of the main circuit. Of course the actual load has to remain below the main circuit capacity. If your kiln takes 6
- /html/shop-talk/2006-02/msg00052.html (9,279 bytes)
- 9. RE: Adding a bid circuit and and electrical breaker questions (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 09:23:25 -0800
- Actually there isn't, which is what I meant. Randall
- /html/shop-talk/2006-02/msg00055.html (7,933 bytes)
- 10. RE: Adding a bid circuit and and electrical breaker questions (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 13:52:48 -0800
- Nope, no breaker for the entire subpanel, in either the subpanel or the main box. Agreed. But since the subpanel is only a couple of inches away from the main panel, using "main line" gauge wire to
- /html/shop-talk/2006-02/msg00057.html (8,536 bytes)
- 11. RE: Thermal Cleaning at Home? (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 15:25:32 -0800
- No, but I have spot-heated parts with a propane torch to drive off any oil in pores and whatnot. Seems to help paint adhesion a good deal. Keep in mind that the self-cleaning cycle hits roughly 900F
- /html/shop-talk/2006-02/msg00078.html (7,420 bytes)
- 12. RE: Wind buffer thingie (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2006 14:02:17 -0800
- Trevor replied : OTOH I've read that the wind deflectors one sometimes sees on big trucks make a significant improvement in fuel mileage. If you can save 10% (say 10mpg to 11mpg), you could save may
- /html/shop-talk/2006-01/msg00022.html (7,359 bytes)
- 13. RE: Pulse chargers / parasitic voltage loss (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 13:40:56 -0800
- Just for an example of one that was hard to find ... I had a similar problem with a 70 Audi 100LS. But it was erratic, sometimes the battery would be dead overnight and other times it would go for w
- /html/shop-talk/2006-01/msg00067.html (8,805 bytes)
- 14. RE: Pulse chargers / parasitic voltage loss (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 13:47:45 -0800
- Also FWIW, I've discovered that the cheap battery maintainers from HF will fail when connected to a deeply discharged battery. I've killed two of them so far. Apparently the only current limit is th
- /html/shop-talk/2006-01/msg00068.html (8,492 bytes)
- 15. RE: Dehumidifier output = distilled water? (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 12:55:10 -0800
- As far as mineral content, yes. But I wouldn't call it "clean" since it will also have condensed anything else that happened to be in the air (smoke, dust, pollen, etc.) One way is to put it in a pa
- /html/shop-talk/2006-01/msg00092.html (7,770 bytes)
- 16. RE: Battery storage (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2005 07:43:12 -0800
- But the automatice reply programs generally do NOT send the original message back, so the footer would not be present. The automatic reply I got yesterday didn't even have the same subject line. Ran
- /html/shop-talk/2005-12/msg00005.html (7,628 bytes)
- 17. RE: Battery storage (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 14:54:13 -0800
- Thank you, Karl ! And all of you who think you could do it better, feel free to run off and build your own. Add all the bling you want, make it sing and dance. Then still be doing it 16 years later,
- /html/shop-talk/2005-12/msg00023.html (8,112 bytes)
- 18. RE: Little tweaks (was : Battery storage) (no shop content) (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 21:45:49 -0800
- Jon, I couldn't care less about your motivations or determination (whatever that means). All I know is that it's a pretty poor guest that criticizes the free accommodations. Last time I counted, MJB
- /html/shop-talk/2005-12/msg00031.html (7,796 bytes)
- 19. RE: Shop Refrigerator (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2005 10:21:43 -0800
- The problem is that the refrigerator's thermostat only checks the temperature in the refrigeration compartment, not the freezer. If the refrigeration compartment is being kept at it's set point by o
- /html/shop-talk/2005-12/msg00049.html (7,774 bytes)
- 20. RE: Shop Refrigerator (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 14:45:00 -0800
- I agree, with the caveat that I've owned several that have no air control. So don't be too surprised if you only find one control. I hate freezer-burned food but likewise hate wasting electricity, s
- /html/shop-talk/2005-12/msg00055.html (7,563 bytes)
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