- 1. Solenoid installation (score: 1)
- Author: "Jon Lind" <JLind@ColoradoSkiing.com>
- Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 09:50:28 -0700
- I've had a bit of a nightmare trying to get my wiring harness back in shape, but to make a long story short, I knocked the tab for the starter relay circuit off my solenoid, removed the solenoid to r
- /html/mgs/1999-12/msg00437.html (7,701 bytes)
- 2. Re: Solenoid installation (score: 1)
- Author: "Tony Woodruff" <tonyw@mailmedia.com>
- Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 09:21:16 -0800
- This may or may not be the solution to your problem, but here's what happened to me last month: My car has an "external" solenoid mounted to the engine compartment, and the starter (clearly not origi
- /html/mgs/1999-12/msg00442.html (8,440 bytes)
- 3. Re: Solenoid installation (score: 1)
- Author: "Peter C." <nosimport@mailbag.com>
- Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 11:19:55 -0600
- The solenoid, when energised, pulls the plunger back toward the electrical connections where it will complete that circuit causing the starter to spin. At the same time, the other end of the plunger
- /html/mgs/1999-12/msg00444.html (8,621 bytes)
- 4. Re: Solenoid installation (score: 1)
- Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>
- Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 10:31:58 -0000
- Unless you have also mechanically attached the broken tab as well as soldering it I can't see it staying on for very long, lead-solder is mechancally very weak, particularly with the weight of wiring
- /html/mgs/1999-12/msg00500.html (8,449 bytes)
- 5. RE: Solenoid installation (score: 1)
- Author: "Jon Lind" <JLind@ColoradoSkiing.com>
- Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 10:15:26 -0700
- Good point. Hmm. Right now it doesn't matter because I took the starter out and reattached the solenoid (removing and installing the starter was very easy--much easier than taking just the solenoid
- /html/mgs/1999-12/msg00519.html (8,283 bytes)
- 6. Re: Solenoid installation (score: 1)
- Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>
- Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 19:11:40 -0000
- You don't say the year, but my 73 has a sealed multi-way branch in the brown behind the dash. Some years feed the relay from the branch, some from the fuse block. PaulH. wires at Obviously
- /html/mgs/1999-12/msg00526.html (8,181 bytes)
- 7. RE: Solenoid installation (score: 1)
- Author: "Jon Lind" <JLind@ColoradoSkiing.com>
- Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 14:49:23 -0700
- It's a 1970. There are two brown lines that are joined at the fuse block, but both of those are also dead. I wonder if a fused/switched source would be o.k.? I don't really want to change the config
- /html/mgs/1999-12/msg00538.html (7,802 bytes)
- 8. Re: Solenoid installation (score: 1)
- Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>
- Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 13:35:56 -0000
- Both my diagrams for 1970 show a single brown from the solenoid to the fuse block, and a tee off there to the starter relay. There is another brown off the solenoid that goes to the four-way sealed b
- /html/mgs/1999-12/msg00574.html (8,723 bytes)
- 9. RE: Solenoid installation (score: 1)
- Author: "Jon Lind" <JLind@ColoradoSkiing.com>
- Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 09:15:06 -0700
- Turns out that one brown wire supplies power to the fuse panel while another is joined to that supply wire there. I had broken out the fuses to seperate fuses so that second brown wire was getting no
- /html/mgs/1999-12/msg00618.html (7,465 bytes)
- 10. Re: Solenoid installation (score: 1)
- Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>
- Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 17:00:20 -0000
- None of the brown wires should be fused, therefore taking fuses out should not make any difference to whether a particular brown has 12v on it or not. However, where two brown wires each have their o
- /html/mgs/1999-12/msg00624.html (8,397 bytes)
- 11. RE: Solenoid installation (score: 1)
- Author: "Jon Lind" <JLind@ColoradoSkiing.com>
- Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:13:09 -0700
- Of if, as I did, you move the two brown wires to seperate terminals on the fuse block.
- /html/mgs/1999-12/msg00626.html (7,499 bytes)
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