- 1. Replacing floor boards and other things (score: 1)
- Author: "Matthew Hale" <haleme@bellsouth.net>
- Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 22:18:50 -0400
- This might be long. I have been on the sidelines of this list for a few months and am ready to ask a few questions to more experienced individuals. The floorboards in my 67 B are way beyond bad and I
- /html/mgs/2002-10/msg00704.html (9,433 bytes)
- 2. Re: Replacing floor boards and other things (score: 1)
- Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>
- Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 22:32:58 -0400
- I have the same question. How do I remove the old floor panels from the cross member? BTW, I have a 3 syncro 4 speed if you need one. I am also looking for '67 dash parts to convert a 68-74 BMH body
- /html/mgs/2002-10/msg00706.html (10,348 bytes)
- 3. Re: Replacing floor boards and other things (score: 1)
- Author: "Jeff Fayne" <fayne@attglobal.net>
- Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 21:54:04 -0500
- What I did is: Cut out the old floor panels up to the point where they meet the cross member, trans tunnel, sill and firewall. I used an air chisel with a panel cutter bit, but you probably could use
- /html/mgs/2002-10/msg00709.html (8,555 bytes)
- 4. Re: Replacing floor boards and other things (score: 1)
- Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>
- Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 23:36:31 -0400
- Hi Jeff, Thanks, sounds good. What kind of drill bits are you using that you can avoid drilling into the cross member with the point of the drill? Don Malling /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/m
- /html/mgs/2002-10/msg00713.html (9,083 bytes)
- 5. Re: Replacing floor boards and other things (score: 1)
- Author: "Jeff Fayne" <fayne@attglobal.net>
- Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 22:50:10 -0500
- I started out using a spot weld drillbit I purchased from Eastwood, it worked for the first few welds, but seemed to get dull pretty quickly. I ended up switching to a normal 3/8" bit. http://www.eas
- /html/mgs/2002-10/msg00716.html (8,709 bytes)
- 6. Re: Replacing floor boards and other things (score: 1)
- Author: "Jeff Fayne" <fayne@attglobal.net>
- Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 22:59:23 -0500
- http://www.eastwoodco.com/aspfiles/itemdy01.asp?UID=2002102323474570&T1=1901 Another nifty spotweld cutter: http://www.eastwoodco.com/aspfiles/itemdy00.asp?UID=2002102323474570&T1=1906 8 They didn't
- /html/mgs/2002-10/msg00717.html (8,411 bytes)
- 7. Re: Replacing floor boards and other things (score: 1)
- Author: Bullwinkle <yd3@nvc.net>
- Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 01:05:17 -0500
- I used a spot weld cutter. It's similar to a small hole saw with a tungsten carbide centering pin. After removing the rotted metal, you have to grind off the "nibs" left behind where the spot welds w
- /html/mgs/2002-10/msg00720.html (7,684 bytes)
- 8. Re: Replacing floor boards and other things (score: 1)
- Author: "Telewest \(PH\)" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
- Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 09:25:32 +0100
- Typically cut as close to the weld line using something like a nibbler (impact cutting can cause distortion, although that is more of a potential problem with external panels) then grind off with an
- /html/mgs/2002-10/msg00724.html (8,408 bytes)
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