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1. Brakes (score: 1): Author: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay@stoolhead.com>; Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 16:46:50 -0500; Hello Gang, Is there anything tricky about changing the brake pads and shoes on the Mk-IV (III+ ?) Midget? I plan to replace the pads and shoes and this is usually a straight-forward job ... but some; /html/mgs/2003-12/msg00222.html (6,284 bytes)
2. brakes (score: 1): Author: "MonteMorris" <mmorris@nemr.net>; Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 18:43:10 -0600; In the next week, I hope to put new brake/clutch slave hoses (and check the wheel cylinders and pads) on the 67B and fix the handbrake which never has worked. I have never done any brake work before; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00124.html (7,926 bytes)
3. RE: brakes (score: 1): Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>; Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 20:32:14 -0500; I think the celophane trick is supposed to stop the brake fluid from draining when you don't want it to, such as when you're changing a flexible brake hose. The celophane goes on top of the opening a; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00127.html (7,814 bytes)
4. Re: brakes (score: 1): Author: "MonteMorris" <mmorris@nemr.net>; Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 22:08:38 -0600; That makes sense that it would slow down the draining. I just looked in the shop and I have a MitiVac instead of an EzyBleed. So you think I replace everything with the cellophane on, then remove ce; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00131.html (8,555 bytes)
5. Re: brakes (score: 1): Author: "Chuck Renner" <crenner@dynalivery.com>; Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 22:41:54 -0600; Monte, you mentioned that you don't know the age of the fluid, etc. So I wouldn't even bother with the cellophane. Remove the bits you're replacing, let the fluid drain out, and then replace the flu; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00132.html (7,847 bytes)
6. Re: brakes (score: 1): Author: Paul Root <proot@iaces.com>; Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 10:21:38 -0600; When I used the EZ Bleed last year I was amazed at how easy and quick it Don't worry about draining it first. Just hook up the EZ Bleed and open it up until clean clear liquid come out. it won't take; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00138.html (9,284 bytes)
7. Re: brakes (score: 1): Author: "MonteMorris" <mmorris@nemr.net>; Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 12:22:28 -0600; Thanks for the encouraging words, Paul. Like anything else, I'm just a little apprehensive about tackling the brakes for the first time, especially when Lindsey Porter keeps stressing the fact that y; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00141.html (10,689 bytes)
8. RE: Brakes (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 13:00:26 -0600; What I would suggest is: Use the cellophane (or plastic wrap) when replacing the components. This will help to prevent the mster from running dry. Keep an eye on it while working. DO NOT LET THE MAST; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00142.html (8,500 bytes)
9. Re: brakes (score: 1): Author: "Paul T. Root" <proot@horton.iaces.com>; Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 14:46:38 -0600; Yeah, you'll be qualified. You'll know if it's right. The pedal should be pretty firm, and the brakes won't lock up. It's pretty easy to use. But reading is a must. -- Paul T. Root - CCSA, CCSE, CCNA; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00147.html (11,912 bytes)
10. brakes (score: 1): Author: "MonteMorris" <mmorris@nemr.net>; Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 23:42:11 -0600; Thanks to all who answered my brake bleeding questions. Hopefully I'll get to it this week. Monte /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00164.html (7,903 bytes)
11. Re: brakes (score: 1): Author: "Telewest $PH$" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 16:12:30 -0000; Putting cellophane over the master cylinder is supposed to prevent excessive fluid loss whilst changing a component. But since your fluid is an unknown quantity you want to get rid of it all anyway.; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00198.html (9,021 bytes)
12. Re: brakes (score: 1): Author: Mgbbob@aol.com; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 12:04:09 -0500; In my humble opinion: If you're changing the slaves and brake lines, there's no need to remove the brake fluid from the reservoir...just bleed after you're done. The reservoir is sealed in fluid and; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00204.html (8,308 bytes)
13. brakes (score: 1): Author: "MonteMorris" <mmorris@nemr.net>; Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 17:25:00 -0600; If the rear brake cylinders are not leaking fluid and are working properly, is there any reason to tear into them while I'm checking out the brake shoes, replacing brake/clutch hoses, troubleshooting; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00244.html (8,376 bytes)
14. RE: brakes (score: 1): Author: "Gordie's Garage" <mg_garage@ameritech.net>; Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 19:03:35 -0500; Of course the correct answer is go ahead and replace them, they are inexpensive, and easy to replace, and as long as you are there, might as well. And stopping is important! Having said that, I am st; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00246.html (9,107 bytes)
15. Re: brakes (score: 1): Author: Max Heim <mvheim@attbi.com>; Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 16:03:07 -0800; You said it... <g> Actually, you won't exactly be replacing the brake fluid if you don't bleed the rear brakes as well, until the fluid runs clear. If you're doing the shoes and bleeding, anyway, the; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00249.html (9,135 bytes)
16. Re: brakes (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@MGAguru.com>; Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 18:19:46 -0600; This depends on a few things. I try not to scare people by inflating the level of risk, but this is brakes you're talking about. If it has been more than 10 years since it was last done, or the histo; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00251.html (10,717 bytes)
17. brakes (score: 1): Author: "MonteMorris" <mmorris@nemr.net>; Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 22:43:50 -0600; Thanks to all that responded about my brake cylinder question. Since I now have lots of different answers I'm going to have to close my eyes and pick an action :-). Changing out the innards of the cy; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00270.html (8,304 bytes)
18. Re: brakes (score: 1): Author: "James Nazarian" <jhn3@uakron.edu>; Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 00:01:51 -0500; I'll probably hear about this, but I throw out those e clips and replace them with 5/8" snap rings. I tried to put an eclip in once and it took FOREVER, I was once told that it is easier to pull the; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00271.html (10,004 bytes)
19. Re: brakes (score: 1): Author: Paul Root <proot@iaces.com>; Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 08:05:42 -0600; No, the hard part is getting the clip that holds the cylinder on the car back on. It's about 70% of the time of the job. :-( -- Paul T. Root E/Mail: proot@iaces.com 600 Stinson Blvd N.E., Fl 1S PAG:; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00278.html (8,753 bytes)
20. Re: brakes (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 08:29:55 -0500; Were I going to the effort to replace the hoses and work on the emergency brake, I would also rebuild the rear cylinders, replace the emergency brake rubbers, and clean & lubricate the brake adjusto; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00280.html (9,059 bytes)

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