- 21. RE: Re: Steering wheel removal (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Fri, 9 Jul 1999 19:27:00 -0500
- In the days before it wasn't politically incorrect, I always used freon to shring the offending part. I've found that dry ice, although less convienient, works just about as well. Put a small chunk o
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg00574.html (11,057 bytes)
- 22. RE: Clutch gone. (?) (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Fri, 9 Jul 1999 22:07:00 -0500
- Sounds like your throwout bearing is gone. Very common. Borg and beck ONLY if youre going back to "stock" on the clutch. My own opinion is that either throwout bearing (ablative or roller) is ok, but
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg00582.html (9,745 bytes)
- 23. RE: Clutch gone. (?) (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1999 12:02:56 -0500
- As I said in my initial post, I've never done the "transmission only" technique, but the MG shop in baton rouge (very old, very reliable) as well as the guys that previously owned the dealership in b
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg00666.html (8,221 bytes)
- 24. RE: Steering wheel removal (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1999 12:05:32 -0500
- Try the "dry ice on the shaft" trick I suggested a couple of days ago. To make it even more effective, you can heat the hub up before you use the dry ice. :) ~alan '71B Reply to: Alan Lott GTA, Aubur
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg00667.html (10,129 bytes)
- 25. RE: WTD - MG (fwd) (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1999 19:10:31 -0500
- Hey rick, given that the original poster of the "MG wanted" message 1) aint too bright and 2) supposedly has $1000-1200 burning a hole in his pocket, perhaps you could make a little profit on that bl
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg00692.html (9,232 bytes)
- 26. RE: 1977 MGB Smog Problems-A Plee for help! (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1999 19:24:29 -0500
- Just take the choke control off and tell them (only if they ask; which I doubt), "it has no choke". ~alan '71B Reply to: Alan Lott GTA, Auburn Univeristy Department of Rehabilitation and Special Educ
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg00695.html (8,089 bytes)
- 27. RE: Leaking water pump (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 12:39:05 -0500
- Likely no problem on the pump, especially if its not making any noise. Just keep the radiator topped off. The water is probably coming from the "weep" hole on the underside of the pump nose, which is
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg00786.html (8,261 bytes)
- 28. RE: Parking Brake (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 12:42:32 -0500
- It could be the bushing in the handle mechanism itself. Unfortunately, I don't know of any way to get that assembly out without removing the seat. If you can get the cable loose from underneath, you
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg00787.html (7,946 bytes)
- 29. RE: Silly Question (Front Springs) (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 12:58:33 -0500
- Well, the difference between 9 and 5/8" and 9.9" is only about 3/8 of 1 inch, which means that if the ride height is changed (supposedly) by a full inch, then something else is going on here. Are the
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg00789.html (8,762 bytes)
- 30. RE: WHEEL PAINT (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 10:02:47 -0500
- Actually, I just did all four of my rims with the tires on. The trick is to break the tire bead from the rim. Once this is done, it is simplicity to mask off the tire. I used a green plastic trash ba
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg00921.html (8,291 bytes)
- 31. RE: From: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu> (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 20:33:10 -0500
- If either of the rear brakes is locking up before the front, you might give some thought to the brake proportioning valve. I can't say I've ever heard of one giving a "soft pedal", but I suppose it's
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg00968.html (9,703 bytes)
- 32. RE: Wiper Wheelbox Problem (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 09:56:13 -0500
- I wish I would have cut mine off. I used a nice big wrench and they came off just fine. Unfortunately, they took the threads off of the wheelbox pipe with them ... what a pain :) ~alan '71B Reply to:
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg01096.html (8,241 bytes)
- 33. RE: Lead Loading Bodywork (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 10:25:03 -0500
- I have to agree, john. I used both techniques recently on my '71B and although the "bondo and spot filler" came out fine, the lead was much, much easier to use with respect to getting an incredibly s
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg01241.html (8,520 bytes)
- 34. RE: White Post Brake M/C for 73 B doesn't work! (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 23:50:47 -0500
- Hi dan, Sorry to tell you, but its not an "alignment" problem with the banjo fitting. Those types of fitting are designed to work at any angle (360 degree rotation). Sounds like something else is goi
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg01293.html (8,204 bytes)
- 35. car-o-scope (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 10:37:19 -0500
- I must say I was a bit nervous after reading all of the car-o-scope email yesterday, but I liked my results (. Has anyone gotten a return of MGB on their list? 1. Land Rover Range Rover 2. Volvo 854
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg01305.html (8,466 bytes)
- 36. RE: Jag XKE (score: 1)
- Author: "Alan Lott" <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 09:16:20 -0500
- I have to agree with much of what trevor said in his earlier post, but also have a possible option. About a year ago I was considering doing a serier II roadster. What I decided to do was to find a "
- /html/mgs/1999-07/msg01356.html (8,742 bytes)
- 37. Re: Trunk (boot) stuck open (score: 1)
- Author: Alan Lott <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 20:28:33 -0500
- Greetings all, After an 18 month sabaticle, I'm back at Auburn University to finish my PhD ... War Eagle! :) ... anyway, while I was off, I had lots of time to work on my 71 B ... a complete gut and
- /html/mgs/1999-06/msg01213.html (8,323 bytes)
- 38. RE: That damn oil spot! (score: 1)
- Author: Alan Lott <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 13:56:36 -0500
- Carburator cleaner and/or brake parts cleaner seems to work fairly well for oil/grease on concrete. Reply to: Alan Lott GTA, Auburn Univeristy Department of Rehabilitation and Special Education My Of
- /html/mgs/1999-06/msg01232.html (8,293 bytes)
- 39. Re: Brake Drum Removal (score: 1)
- Author: Alan Lott <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 16:23:13 -0500
- Just had this problem with my 71 B this past weekend. I ended up removing the hub and drum at the same time with a puller. It wasn't too hard, and it will work. If you find yourself with no other opt
- /html/mgs/1998-04/msg00550.html (7,297 bytes)
- 40. lumpy idle (score: 1)
- Author: Alan Lott <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>
- Date: Mon, 02 Mar 1998 13:03:13 -0600
- First of all I'd like to thank everyone for their help on this one. The response was amazing (I think I received about 40 some-odd replies). I started replying and thanking individually, but was quic
- /html/mgs/1998-03/msg00093.html (7,576 bytes)
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