- 121. Re: Distributor earth lead (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 23:09:09 -0500
- This wire is essential, whether you have points or an Ignitor. Since the plate the points mount to is movable, the ground connection would be intermittent without the "earth lead". If you replace it,
- /html/mgs/2002-09/msg00982.html (8,391 bytes)
- 122. Re: Shock oil (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 10:24:23 -0500
- In electrical engineering, G = 1,000,000,000 M = 1,000,000 and K = 1,000. I believe most other US engineering and scientific fields use the same convention. Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s) Emai
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00015.html (7,839 bytes)
- 123. Re: MGB shakes between 55-65 (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 12:42:05 -0500
- Hi Kevin: I'm in the middle of fighting the "shakes" myself on my TD. So far the suggestions have covered: tire balance tires themselves rims U-joints drive shaft toe-in I'm not sure, what order to c
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00025.html (8,848 bytes)
- 124. What's with the grease zirk on the new U-joint? (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 02:22:05 -0500
- I just replaced the U-joints on the TD. The new Hardy Spicer HS194 unit has a long grease zirk that severely limits the drive shaft angle in one direction on the front yoke. At about 7 degrees the zi
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00071.html (8,247 bytes)
- 125. Re: MGB shakes between 55-65 (self shaking v.s. bumpy road) (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 18:56:42 -0500
- My B has always been pretty well shake-free. Maybe when everything is "right" on the B, and the road is smooth, there is nothing to excite the resonant vibration. But get on a bumpy road, and there y
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00116.html (9,191 bytes)
- 126. Re: What's with the grease zirk on the new U-joint? (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 19:13:04 -0500
- Hi Paul: Actually I did try the short nipple from the old unit, but I found that it was so close to the fork ear, that I couldn't get my grease gun on it. I took the new U-joints with the long nipple
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00117.html (9,565 bytes)
- 127. Re: silicone brake fluid vs. dot-4 (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 21:26:29 -0500
- I've been using it in my TD for 6 years with no problems what so ever. Just don't step in it, if you spill some on the floor. It is very slippery! Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgt
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00268.html (8,507 bytes)
- 128. Re: Electrical issue...damn that wire is hot; 77MGB (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 21:56:36 -0500
- Anything with electrical current running through it will dissipate some degree of heat. Rheostats can run hot, depending on their setting and how much power they are controlling. Fuses can get uncomf
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00271.html (9,577 bytes)
- 129. Re: Putting our cars performance into perspective (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 22:22:26 -0500
- I call the MGB a sports car. I call formula one cars, race cars. I call Mustangs and Camaros, muscle cars. My "Detroit iron" friends do not make any distinction among the three classes. Bob Donahue (
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00274.html (9,740 bytes)
- 130. Re: distributor (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 22:42:58 -0500
- The clamp itself was sprung from over tightening on my MGB (another gift from the DPO). The distributor actually worked its way out on the road once. Now that I have electronic ignition installed, I
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00275.html (8,219 bytes)
- 131. Re: Oil Pressure questions (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 23:11:02 -0500
- I question the effectiveness of the oil pressure gauge to warn of an oil leak. When the pressure falls due to low oil it will fall fast, and by the time the driver notices it, it will be too late. If
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00276.html (9,934 bytes)
- 132. Re: computer problem-NO LBC CONTENT (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 14:36:38 -0500
- Another thing you can do is boot up in Safe Mode, and run scan disk from there. On my computer you get to Safe Mode by hitting F8 while the computer is booting. I don't know if this procedure is the
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00317.html (8,404 bytes)
- 133. Re: more power (but we have styling) (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 19:43:40 -0500
- I think the Pontiac Aztek and the Cadillac CTS tie for the "most ugliest car ever made by man". The Miata actually isn't too bad, compared to the current crop of chrome deficient, plastic look-a-like
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00336.html (8,340 bytes)
- 134. Re: Oil Pressure questions (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 14:03:04 -0500
- IMHO, our engines would be much better protected with an oil *level* gauge, rather than an oil *pressure* gauge. The risk of the oil running low is much greater than the risk of the oil pump failing.
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00379.html (8,603 bytes)
- 135. Synthetic Motor Oil (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 21:41:13 -0500
- Now that synthetic is avaliable in 20W50, I'm tempted to try it in the old MG. But, I've heard horror stories about the stuff going like sh*t through a goose on an old motor. What say the wisdom of t
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00499.html (6,944 bytes)
- 136. Re: fuel pump (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 23:44:54 -0500
- My B had one of those solid state cubes on it when I bought it six years ago. It's still going strong. Once in a while, it makes a little noise when the ignition is turned on. The noise goes away aft
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00568.html (8,551 bytes)
- 137. Re: U joint removal (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 23:18:35 -0500
- I just did my first removal with the good advice of the list. It took a hell of a lot of tapping! I used a socket as a drift. When the cap on the other end started to protrude, I put a bigger socket
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00770.html (7,549 bytes)
- 138. Re: Optimal temperature, radiator cap, etc. (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 22:35:35 -0500
- I owned a '64 Saab that also had a radiator blind. It had a cord instead of a chain. The cord had knots that engaged a slot in the dash to make the blind adjustable. Are small engines easily over coo
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00876.html (9,423 bytes)
- 139. Re: MOSS or VB (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 17:24:00 -0500
- That's a good question. As far as the reproduction parts go, I have to believe they all use the same sources. Like, how many companies could possibly be manufacturing new MGB bumpers? You're probably
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg00982.html (7,954 bytes)
- 140. Re: dynabatts (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob D." <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
- Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 01:00:18 -0500
- I really like the idea of the sealed battery. I have an Optima in my TD. Unfortunately, the Optima won't fit in the B. It looks like this Dyna-Batt will fit. The specs say it will put out a lot of cr
- /html/mgs/2002-08/msg01031.html (7,388 bytes)
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